Restricted Access

Cheedale is a SSSI and SAC with a high level of legal protection under European law. Access for climbing is concessionary and can only be maintained if climber's continue to adhere to a number of conditions agreed with Derbyshire Wildlife Trust (who own the Southern bank of the river). These include:

  • No access along the top of the dale beyond a corner formed by the wall and obvious new fence bounding the 3rd major gully east of Plum Buttress. Therefore, no access to Runyans Corner and Moving, Long, or Two-Tier Buttresses from above.
  • No further bolted development on the small, vegetated, and obscure crags, which rim the dale.
  • Do not leave in situ krabs or tape on bolt hangers.
  • Parts of Nettle Buttress, Chee Tor East, and Dogs Dinner area are bolt free areas of outstanding appearance. 
  • Do not remove large swathes of ivy.

Blackwell Halt
This compact wall has a good set of mid-grade routes. The setting is pleasant and there is plenty of picnic potential at the base. The wall faces south although the lower section is in the shade of the trees. There is little seepage and it is well sheltered from the wind.

Approach - From the Monsal Trail on the Chee Dale Upper Approach, head down towards the cafe/cycle hire. Cross the bridge and turn sharply left at the cottages to follow a small path along the edge of the river past a pump house. This leads to a tunnel under the train tracks. On leaving the tunnel, cross the fence on the left and go up some hidden stone steps. From here a path leads up into the grassy field below the quarry.

Access - The new landowner of Blackwell Halt is working towards being able to give permission for climbers to access the site but is not currently able to do so. If you do decide to visit, be aware you may be asked to leave - please be polite and courteous at all times.

Rockfax Description
Climb direct to the roof then make a hard traverse left to gain the upper wall which is very easy to fluff.F
A. Kristian Clemmow 2013 © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Re climbs the start of Atlantic Realm by a much harder improved sequence before powering leftwards across the lip in an R'n'P type fashion. The headwall will provide ample opportunities to spit the unfit off.

Kristian Clemmow 05/Sep/2013.

Ticklists

Peak limestone north graded list - sport , UK 8a and up

Feedback

User Date Notes
kristian 27 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: My intention was to fill the big chossy pocket in with cement to stop people climbing up the loose section. One of those jobs I'll never get around to. Graded for climbing left and over the chossy hole.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: My intention was to fill the big chossy pocket in with cement to stop people climbing up the loose section. One of those jobs I'll never get around to. Graded for climbing left and over the chossy hole.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Chee Dale Upper

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Voting
High 8a+
Mid 8a+
Low 8a+
High 8a
Mid 8a
Low 8a
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
Votes cast 2
Votes cast 2
Style of Ascent
Lead
Redpoint
Repeated
Route of Interest
Little Plum

Grade: 8a ***
(Stoney Middleton)

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