Cheedale is a SSSI and SAC with a high level of legal protection under European law. Access for climbing is concessionary and can only be maintained if climber's continue to adhere to a number of conditions agreed with Derbyshire Wildlife Trust (who own the Southern bank of the river). These include:
Blackwell Halt
This compact wall has a good set of mid-grade routes. The setting is pleasant and there is plenty of picnic potential at the base. The wall faces south although the lower section is in the shade of the trees. There is little seepage and it is well sheltered from the wind.
Approach - From the Monsal Trail on the Chee Dale Upper Approach, head down towards the cafe/cycle hire. Cross the bridge and turn sharply left at the cottages to follow a small path along the edge of the river past a pump house. This leads to a tunnel under the train tracks. On leaving the tunnel, cross the fence on the left and go up some hidden stone steps. From here a path leads up into the grassy field below the quarry.
Access - The new landowner of Blackwell Halt is working towards being able to give permission for climbers to access the site but is not currently able to do so. If you do decide to visit, be aware you may be asked to leave - please be polite and courteous at all times.
Rockfax Description
Climb direct to the roof then make a hard traverse left to gain the upper wall which is very easy to fluff.F
A. Kristian Clemmow 2013 © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Re climbs the start of Atlantic Realm by a much harder improved sequence before powering leftwards across the lip in an R'n'P type fashion. The headwall will provide ample opportunities to spit the unfit off.
Kristian Clemmow 05/Sep/2013.
Peak limestone north graded list - sport , UK 8a and up
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
kristian | 27 Jun, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: My intention was to fill the big chossy pocket in with cement to stop people climbing up the loose section. One of those jobs I'll never get around to. Graded for climbing left and over the chossy hole. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: My intention was to fill the big chossy pocket in with cement to stop people climbing up the loose section. One of those jobs I'll never get around to. Graded for climbing left and over the chossy hole. |
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Grade: 8a ***
(Stoney Middleton)