Rockfax Description
Intricate and interesting sequences on the headwall. A few wires are needed on the easy lower wall and near the top. Start at a rusting metal structure at the base of the wall. Move up rightwards to the break and first bolts. A powerful move gains the headwall and good hold from where a thin crack-line on the left is climbed to a niche and the top above it. Lower-off. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
'Bolted but beautiful ...... A Brean masterpiece' - CC Guide 2004
The only sports route on Ocean wall. Start at the concrete and iron structure, climb the easy ramp with a couple of wires/friends for protection; the hard climbing starts at the small roof and is bolt protected, however a Friend 2 will make the final moves feel safer. Bolted lower off.
Ticklists
James's Bristol 7c's , Brean Down Sports Climbs , 7Cs with stars near Bristol , Best of Bristol Sport
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| J1_TOV | 7 Jan, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Easy (scramble) but loose looking bottom. 10m to 1st bolt. 8 hand movement boulder, into a shakeout, then a technical finish. The top would be safe enough without gear, but is nice to have the wire in as mentioned before. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Easy (scramble) but loose looking bottom. 10m to 1st bolt. 8 hand movement boulder, into a shakeout, then a technical finish. The top would be safe enough without gear, but is nice to have the wire in as mentioned before. |
||||
| Wise | 12 Dec, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: A no. 6 (although a 7 might be better) and no. 5 wire protect the bottom. No. 2 wire protects the top. Nothing for sport climbers to worry about. If I told you it was soft would it help to get more people on it? | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: A no. 6 (although a 7 might be better) and no. 5 wire protect the bottom. No. 2 wire protects the top. Nothing for sport climbers to worry about. If I told you it was soft would it help to get more people on it? |
||||
Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Brean Down
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Return of the Gunfighter
Grade: 7c ***
(Cheddar Gorge South)