Rockfax Description
400m. A fun climb in a stunning position overlooking Lac Emosson that gives the feeling like you are in Lofoten! With a relatively short approach and a scrambling descent, this can provide a good shorter day option.
1) 5c, start is on a ledge 2m up.
2) 6a, 3) 6a, 4) 5c, 5) 3c, 6) 5c, 7) 5b, 8) 5b, 9) 5c, 10) 5b, 11) 4c, 12) 3c. The last two pitches are sparsely bolted. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
This is the east flank of the NE ridge of the Aiguille du Van N. Well equipped though a bit dirty in places.
Road to the Walker Spur , Great Alpine routes not in Chamonix Rockfax 1st Ed.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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lostflatlander | 24 Jun, 2023 |
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βeta: There are no bolts (or atleast, we did not see any) except for a belay in the last two pitches. You should probably either abseil from the top of the last technical pitch or solo the last pitches. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: There are no bolts (or atleast, we did not see any) except for a belay in the last two pitches. You should probably either abseil from the top of the last technical pitch or solo the last pitches. |
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Paul Sagar | 6 Jul, 2022 |
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βeta: This is a 3 star route all day long. Get on it! The penultimate grade 4 pitch has bolted belays but nothing in between. However, slings and a couple of nuts protect it no problem. The last grade 3 section also has no bolts and is basically just a choose your own adventure scramble to the top, probably around 80m. Intermediate belays available with a large sling. The rest of the climb is fully equipped, though anyone operating near their maximum might want to take a set of wires to boost confidence as the bolting is typically alpine. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: This is a 3 star route all day long. Get on it! The penultimate grade 4 pitch has bolted belays but nothing in between. However, slings and a couple of nuts protect it no problem. The last grade 3 section also has no bolts and is basically just a choose your own adventure scramble to the top, probably around 80m. Intermediate belays available with a large sling. The rest of the climb is fully equipped, though anyone operating near their maximum might want to take a set of wires to boost confidence as the bolting is typically alpine. |
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mic.snow | 5 Sep, 2019 |
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βeta: Locate R1 before you start climbing. It's right next to the gully, on a slab between two roofs. P1 traverses a lot and it's not the most logical line. Some random tat on P1 and P2 suggest people getting lost. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Locate R1 before you start climbing. It's right next to the gully, on a slab between two roofs. P1 traverses a lot and it's not the most logical line. Some random tat on P1 and P2 suggest people getting lost. |
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mic.snow | 5 Sep, 2019 |
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βeta: [2019-09-04] No more missing equipment | βeta? | |
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βeta: [2019-09-04] No more missing equipment |
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Mike-W-99 | 7 Jul, 2019 |
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βeta: The 2nd 6a pitch is much easier if you're tall. | βeta? | |
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βeta: The 2nd 6a pitch is much easier if you're tall. |
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pingora | 27 Jun, 2019 |
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βeta: Very reminiscent of Fiddlers Nose Direct up in the far north west of Scotland except its bolted | βeta? | |
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βeta: Very reminiscent of Fiddlers Nose Direct up in the far north west of Scotland except its bolted |
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Grade: TD- 6a ***
(Aiguille d'Argentiere)