60m, 3 pitches.
A pulse racing excursion up the hairline seam between Trinity and Incubus, involving finger searing sequences and RP protection.
1. 30m. 6c. Climb to the overlap at the base of the seam and arrange protection. Upward progress from the overlap is bold, technical and sustained, but a poor rest can be attained at the break. Further tenuous moves, lead to the salvation of a large detached flake. Move leftwards from here under the overlap and pull awkwardly onto the wall above to reach a sloping ledge. From the ledge step right to gain the base of a rightward facing corner which leads to good belays in a recess.
2. 15m. 5c. The shallow groove above is followed with interest to easier ground and a large shelf. Belay at the left hand end, beneath a short steep crack.
3. 15m. 6b. Climb the crack with a hard move to finish. Scramble to the top.
All gear placed on the lead.
1. 30m. 6c. Climb to the overlap at the base of the seam and arrange protection. Upward progress from the overlap is bold, technical and sustained, but a poor rest can be attained at the break. Further tenuous moves, lead to the salvation of a large detached flake. Move leftwards from here under the overlap and pull awkwardly onto the wall above to reach a sloping ledge. From the ledge step right to gain the base of a rightward facing corner which leads to good belays in a recess.
2. 15m. 5c. The shallow groove above is followed with interest to easier ground and a large shelf. Belay at the left hand end, beneath a short steep crack.
3. 15m. 6b. Climb the crack with a hard move to finish. Scramble to the top.
All gear placed on the lead.
Craig Matheson, Rob Matheson 20/Jul/2013.
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Route of Interest
Fear of Failure
Grade: E8 6c ***
(Dove Crag (Dovedale))