Restricted Access

No access issues reported in recent years.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction applies to Buttresses 3-5 to protect nesting peregrines.

26m, 2 pitches. A tremendous, if circuitous, climb which takes the lower rib of the buttress, crosses above the roof of the cave and finishes up the steep right wall. Start at a niche in the lower, right wall. From the niche gain the front of the buttress and climb the difficult blunt rib to the ledge on Comet Wall. Move up and right to gain a horizontal crack above the block forming the roof of the cave. A short sensational traverse right leads to a hanging grove (runner) and a resting place by a scrittly jug around to the right. Climb the wall moving slightly right on widely spaced flat holds - bold climbing requiring careful rope work. The lower section (often damp) can be avoided by starting up Comet Wall or The Black Chair.

Ticklists

The All New 3 Star Way to Yorkshire Gritstone Heaven.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Pagan 21 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Traverse and lower wall cleaned April 2021 - might want a dry spell and an ab down with a soft brush to clear the remaining loose material before an ascent (easily done by abbing down the top of Comet Wall and using the half height tree to direct the ropes). Upper wall beyond the hand traverse is clean although a good hold where you swing onto the face is crumbling a bit - take care.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Traverse and lower wall cleaned April 2021 - might want a dry spell and an ab down with a soft brush to clear the remaining loose material before an ascent (easily done by abbing down the top of Comet Wall and using the half height tree to direct the ropes). Upper wall beyond the hand traverse is clean although a good hold where you swing onto the face is crumbling a bit - take care.

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Route of Interest
The Madcap Laughs

Grade: E4 6c ***
(Eavestone Crag)

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