Rockfax Description
A stunning and alarming route. Start by the ladder.
1) 6a, 28m. From the top of the ladder, move onto the top of a pinnacle. Head left up the slab and move up again to a small ledge. Shuffle right to a groove and climb this. Move left at its top before heading straight up to belay below the corner of P2 of Scratch.
2) 6a, 30m. Move left around the pinnacle to a groove just left of the arete. Gain the slab above and climb the arete to the roof. Move to the right of the arete and make a tricky move left onto the slab above the roof which leads to more thin climbing. You are eventually forced back onto the steeper right wall. Head straight up, don't slap for the ledge; it slopes alarmingly. Easy climbing leads to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Ultimate E4 ticklist , Definitive *** Tremadog

Feedback

User Date Notes
George_Surf 1 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: P1 rockfax is wrong; the original way is from the ladder climb on to the pillar then climb straight up the groove above (old peg, crucial gold dragonfly to back it up), a hard crux. Finish straight up the slab. In the Tremadog guide you go right below the peg and up the rib (safer!) to join the original line
Show beta
βeta: P1 rockfax is wrong; the original way is from the ladder climb on to the pillar then climb straight up the groove above (old peg, crucial gold dragonfly to back it up), a hard crux. Finish straight up the slab. In the Tremadog guide you go right below the peg and up the rib (safer!) to join the original line

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High E5
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High E3
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High 6b
Mid 6b
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High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
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Votes cast 9
Votes cast 8
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Vulture

Grade: E4 6a ***
(Cilan Head)

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