Restricted Access

The BMC has an agreement with the National Trust for fixed equipment in the dale. Put simply this is that like for like maintenance/replacement can take place as and when is needed but placement of new bolts would require agreement through the Peak Area meeting followed by approaching the National Trust for permission. There isn't a presumption of refusal by any means, but the National Trust understandably want to keep track of bolting activity in the Dale and in some cases they may need to apply for SSSI consent as landowner. The National Trust are extremely supportive of climbing in all it's forms in the Dale and it's important that we continue to cultivate our good relationship with them to ensure our needs as climbers are considered into the future. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

-  Tissington Spires - please avoid all routes on South Gully Buttress (Zulu Dawn to Amoeba inclusive) during the restriction period.

-  Ravens Tor - due to the nest location the whole crag is to be avoided for the restriction period.

Rockfax Description
A good line but with a stopper move. Start just left of Yew Tree Wall and climb past a thread on the left to twin breaks. Pull up and make an impossible move using a tiny finger pocket to gain holds above. Trend right to join Yew Tree Wall, or finish up left at the John Peel belay. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Start just left of Yew Tree Wall, climb direct to reach the break a few metres left of the tree, then continue straight up the wall above.
NOTE - the move above the twin break appears to be much harder than 5c if you use the tiny finger pocket and it isn't obvious how else you would do it.

Mark Pretty 2007.

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Route of Interest
The Strangler

Grade: E4 5c ***
(Stanage Plantation)

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