230m, 7 pitches.

Rockfax Description
II, 200m. The route starts below a slabby triangular niche capped by a small overhang. There are variations on the top four pitches but this is the classic way of doing the route.
Approach - The crag is directly behind the Refuge d'Argentière. From the hut, walk up scree (snow in winter) directly to the foot of the route.
1) 4c, 25m. Climb the left side of the niche and pass the overhang on the left. Follow a fun chimney to a good ledge.
2) 4b, 30m. Step left and climb a series of easy cracks to a ledge with a single bolt belay.
3) 3c, 25m. Head up easy, broken ground to a stance below and left of a cracked slab.
4) 5b, 35m. Cross more easy ground rightwards then follow a crack up and right across the slab before going directly up to a small belay ledge.
5) 4c, 30m. Continue up right across cracked slabs to a ledge.
6) 5b, 35m. Climb broken, blocky ground diagonally up and right to belay directly below the summit tower, which is much steeper than the previous few pitches.
7) 5b, 25m. Climb the excellent crack directly above the belay, just to the right of an arête, to a large ledge. Scramble easily from here onto the summit block.
Descent 1 - Abseil pitch 7 and then abseil the slabs below the ridge which pitch 6 follows. There are bolted and well placed anchors every 30m - 40m down the slabs. These bring you almost back to the foot of the route, but not quite. Those climbing the route in spring will have a 20m walk through snow back their kit.
Descent 2 - If carrying a sack, make a 20m abseil northwest from the summit to reach the top of a west-facing couloir. Ignore the couloir and instead traverse a gently rising 50m long ledge system, underneath a series of overhangs, to a notch in a rock ridge. From here, scramble down a west-facing rocky couloir and walk back to the foot of the first pitch. © Rockfax

Michel Piola 27/Dec/1975

Ticklists

Escalades Choisies Mont-Blanc Aiguilles Rouges (60 Routes 4 to 6a+)

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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
btiller87 ?Aug, 2018 -
Connorh ?Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S awesome route
awesome route
Jenny Hall 31 Jul, 2018 2nd O/S
with Louis
with Louis
Hidden 8 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
ez does it 8 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19 Jun, 2018 Lead
Hidden ?Jun, 2018 AltLd
janegallwey 13 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
Hamish Frost ?Aug, 2017 AltLd
Maz J 18 Jul, 2017 AltLd Got a bit lost on pitch 3, so missed the Lucky crack and sent Simon up a horrendous off width 6a crack instead (backed off). Followed other cracks in the slab to get back on route, then led final 5b pitch.
with Simon Jones
Got a bit lost on pitch 3, so missed the Lucky crack and sent Simon up a horrendous off width 6a crack instead (backed off). Followed other cracks in the slab to get back on route, then led final 5b pitch.
with Simon Jones
Richard Alderton 17 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
EllieWoods 17 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S Did version in Classic and Plaisir - 4c max.
Did version in Classic and Plaisir - 4c max.
rpinto 13 Jul, 2017 AltLd
Christine 13 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
with rpinto
with rpinto
Rob N 5 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
Freshprintce ?Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23 Apr, 2017 -
mBob8 23 Apr, 2017 AltLd O/S Lead crux, lovely pitch, unbeatable surroundings
Lead crux, lovely pitch, unbeatable surroundings
blakeclimber07 7 Apr, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Aaron
with Aaron
Tim Rodgers 9 Sep, 2016 AltLd
Dino Dave 25 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
Bristol_Quornstar 25 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S Our first route of the summer '16 trip. Bivi'd near Argentiere hut. Dave led first block of pitches including 5c option (in fact we simul-climbed this section as combined more than one pitch together on a 60m rope!) and I led top block of pitches including 5b crack.
Our first route of the summer '16 trip. Bivi'd near Argentiere hut. Dave led first block of pitches including 5c option (in fact we simul-climbed this section as combined more than one pitch together on a 60m rope!) and I led top block of pitches including 5b crack.
Hidden 15 Aug, 2016 Lead
w-watson 13 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hoyes 8 Aug, 2016 AltLd dnf Late start after climbing the Flèche Rousse the previous day. Abseiled off before the top but not early enough to stand a chance of making the lift. Had amazing omelette in the hut to fuel the very long walk out.
with Batt, Alex S
Late start after climbing the Flèche Rousse the previous day. Abseiled off before the top but not early enough to stand a chance of making the lift. Had amazing omelette in the hut to fuel the very long walk out.
with Batt, Alex S
Hidden 2 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
kbow265 ?Aug, 2016 2nd
Hidden 26 Jul, 2016 2nd
bidean 26 Jul, 2016 Lead
AnnaBacklund ?Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S
David Horwood 10 Sep, 2015 -
adrianj 31 Aug, 2015 AltLd After mega walk in the day before from Grand Montets. The hut is lovely! Finished at pitch 6 so we had time to walk back to Lognon. Amazing Glacial walk
with TimmyG
After mega walk in the day before from Grand Montets. The hut is lovely! Finished at pitch 6 so we had time to walk back to Lognon. Amazing Glacial walk
with TimmyG
Hidden 31 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S
A Jackson ?Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
with Neil Murphy
with Neil Murphy
MarinaKrijgsman 31 Jul, 2015 2nd
with ijsbeer
with ijsbeer
ijsbeer 31 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S Marina Krijgsman (ASAC)
Marina Krijgsman (ASAC)
David Maddison 24 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S
steve-grigg 24 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
ned_85 9 Jul, 2015 AltLd
Happy Haggis 29 Aug, 2013 -
Hidden 15 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 2 Jul, 2013 2nd O/S
Andy Lagan 15 Mar, 2012 Lead
Hidden ?Aug, 2011 -
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