UKH Hills - 'Needle Arete'

3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A well-positioned and exposed route that finishes atop the needle. Start low down on the front face amongst the trees, beneath a very short boot-width layback crack.
1) 7m. Climb the crack to a ledge with some big trees on it and a large low spike. This pitch can be bypassed from the ledge.
2) 20m. From the right-hand side of the low spike, climb the slab to below the buttress proper and continue up a crack system just left of the arete to a steeper final section that eases at a good spike hold. Swing right to a stance and tree belay.
3) 12m. Climb above the tree for 2m on good holds until horizontal moves left around the arete (under a nose) access a corner/groove. Climb this easily to the needle. © Rockfax

FA. Jim Simpson 1949.

Ticklists

West Country Climbs , South West VDiff-HVS , Moving to Devon , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , I want a Pasty! , Dewerstone Sub-HVS Multipitch Time Trial , Definitive *** Dartmoor Trad , S Devon & Dartmoor’s Star Diffs , Cream first! , By May… , Meg'n'Liz's Dewerstone slicklist

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User	Date		Notes
PaulJepson	25 Mar	Show βeta βeta: Tree belay is dead af. Use the many surrounding cracks to build your own belay. The rotten remains need cutting off really.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Tree belay is dead af. Use the many surrounding cracks to build your own belay. The rotten remains need cutting off really.
EdJHarley	25 Apr, 2023	Show βeta βeta: Very slippery when wet!	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Very slippery when wet!
Hal Mungbean	4 Apr, 2023	Show βeta βeta: Tree belay P2 v dead and rattling. Easy to back-up with decent wires and cams above and left.
Show beta βeta: Tree belay P2 v dead and rattling. Easy to back-up with decent wires and cams above and left.
gillyml	13 Apr, 2021	Show βeta βeta: Another great route for for blowing out the post lockdown cobwebs.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Another great route for for blowing out the post lockdown cobwebs.
Gilster	14 Oct, 2020	Show βeta βeta: Tree belay v rotten	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Tree belay v rotten
JohnHutch	14 Sep, 2019	Show βeta βeta: Tough for V diff!	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Tough for V diff!
BrightEyes	27 Jul, 2019	Show βeta βeta: A group of us climbed together. I seconded the second pitch.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: A group of us climbed together. I seconded the second pitch.
Monk	11 Jun, 2007	Show βeta βeta: I combined the first and second pitches (couldn't see any good reason not to!). A very pleasant climb, that was made better by doing the top pitch of Camel rather than the scrappy 3rd pitch.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: I combined the first and second pitches (couldn't see any good reason not to!). A very pleasant climb, that was made better by doing the top pitch of Camel rather than the scrappy 3rd pitch.
Tom Last	23 Jan, 2006	Show βeta βeta: We skipped the first pitch as it's just a rank looking mossy crack and slab and you can just walk to the top of it, making it feel a bit pointless. You might as well link the last two pitches as belaying at the tree actually produces more drag as the rope runs round the corner. Better as a single pitch route imho; you still get the best of the climbing and you save time.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: We skipped the first pitch as it's just a rank looking mossy crack and slab and you can just walk to the top of it, making it feel a bit pointless. You might as well link the last two pitches as belaying at the tree actually produces more drag as the rope runs round the corner. Better as a single pitch route imho; you still get the best of the climbing and you save time.