Rockfax Description
Although close to the routes either side, this is a very worthwhile objective. The initial pitch is fairly high in the grade.
1) 5c, 25m. From the start of the Leviathan groove, pursue an unwavering path up the arete to reach a ledge and tree belay.
2) 5b, 24m. Head up rightwards and then onward to below a large overhang. Tackle the overhang by moving up rightwards on large but well spaced holds to a mossy crack. Move up the crack past a small tree to a ledge. Take the short easy crack to finish. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Two contrasting pitches with a good climax. E1 if the first pitch only is climbed. Start as for Leviathan.
1) 5c. Start as for Leviathan. Move right, onto the arête, and follow this, passing overlaps (crux), to a reach a good ledge, and a tree belay.
2) 5b/c. Climb up, and rightwards, until above Central Groove’s corner. Take the hanging wall direct, on large holds, to a crack. Climb the crack to the top. Brutal, but there is some protection.
FA. P O?Sullivan 1979.
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Grade: E1 5b ***
(The Dewerstone)