Restricted Access
Climbing at Chudleigh Rock is an inherently dangerous activity and climbers should be aware of the risk of personal injury and death. The landowner (The Clifford Estate), is very supportive of climbing at the crag, but requires that all climbers using the crag have 3rd party liability insurance cover up to £10 million. This is an integral part of BMC or MCofS membership or can be obtained elsewhere providing it gives the same level of cover.
Fixed equipment on the crag has not been installed by the Clifford Estate Company Ltd and is not the responsibility of The Clifford Estate Company Ltd. Please be aware that the fixed equipment is not checked or maintained by the Clifford Estate Company Ltd and the Clifford Estate Company Ltd accepts no liability for the death or injury of any person involved in climbing arising from fixed equipment failure.
Do not light fires - in the past this has caused damage to plants and the local bat colony, and could gain climbers a poor reputation if it happens in future.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 4 April to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
A nesting owl has been reported near Stalactite Direct - avoid this and nearby routes until the young birds have fledged (likely to be in mid-late June).
Rockfax Description
A popular route composed of four short but entertaining pitches that are split by accommodating belay ledges. Start at a slim right-facing corner in the middle of the face.
1) 4b, 12m. Climb the corner and wall via spaced ledges to horizontal breaks. Traverse left and pull onto a belay ledge at the base of a slab.
2) 4c, 6m. The intricate slab and corner lead to another good ledge with peg and nut belays.
3) 5a, 10m. Move above the belay steeply to below an overhang, peg. Move left and gain a small corner above with a bit of a struggle. Continue to a belay on the edge of the buttress.
4) 15m. Follow the cleanest line up the edge of the buttress to the summit of the Western Tower. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
It is usual to do this in two pitches. Belaying at the Spider P1 belay ledge is suggested for first timers, but it is also possible to belay post-crux at the tree above.
FA. N.Hannaby 1961.
Ticklists
West Country Climbs , South West VDiff-HVS , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , South West Classic VS's , Chudleigh Challenge , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , I want a Pasty! , South Devon Stars: Diff - HVS , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , The South Devon Time Machine (Part I)
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Christian Kuhlmann | 8 May, 2022 |
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βeta: Quite a sweaty day! Lead P1 and P2. Brilliant climbing! Abseiled off a mostly dead Ash tree (with Ash die back) to avoid the chossy summit. Not sure how much that tree has left in it, be warned. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Quite a sweaty day! Lead P1 and P2. Brilliant climbing! Abseiled off a mostly dead Ash tree (with Ash die back) to avoid the chossy summit. Not sure how much that tree has left in it, be warned. |
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| John Cuthbert | 27 Jul, 2021 |
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βeta: I havent been to Chudleigh for an aeon, and i cant say that my latest foray has altered my opinion on the crag's virtues. I do not get why this is a 3 star classic. Its not even close to a typical 3 star peak or N.Wales offering, or to the stunning routes at the Dewerstone nearby. Its awkward, often polished, sometimes poorly protected, and sometimes all these 3 star virtues are present at once. As for the final pitch, it now in such a state of thorny skin shredding decay, that the poor old tree on the 3rd belay is dying from the excesses of its employment as an abseil bail anchor. I'll no be back in a hurry... | ||
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Show beta
βeta: I havent been to Chudleigh for an aeon, and i cant say that my latest foray has altered my opinion on the crag's virtues. I do not get why this is a 3 star classic. Its not even close to a typical 3 star peak or N.Wales offering, or to the stunning routes at the Dewerstone nearby. Its awkward, often polished, sometimes poorly protected, and sometimes all these 3 star virtues are present at once. As for the final pitch, it now in such a state of thorny skin shredding decay, that the poor old tree on the 3rd belay is dying from the excesses of its employment as an abseil bail anchor. I'll no be back in a hurry... |
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| Dave1987 | 7 Nov, 2020 |
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βeta: Sopping wet crack on the crux, so was a bit sketch. Banjo Dan fell on second, unforgivable! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Sopping wet crack on the crux, so was a bit sketch. Banjo Dan fell on second, unforgivable! |
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| Peter271263 | 28 May, 2019 |
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βeta: Great route | βeta? | |
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βeta: Great route |
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| chris j | 7 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: If you're careful with ropework it's probably best to do the first three pitches as one. Superb route though a little polished around the crux. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: If you're careful with ropework it's probably best to do the first three pitches as one. Superb route though a little polished around the crux. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Chudleigh Rocks - South Face
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Leviathan
Grade: VS 4c ***
(The Dewerstone)