Restricted Access

Climbing at Chudleigh Rock is an inherently dangerous activity and climbers should be aware of the risk of personal injury and death. The landowner (The Clifford Estate), is very supportive of climbing at the crag, but requires that all climbers using the crag have 3rd party liability insurance cover up to £10 million. This is an integral part of BMC or MCofS membership or can be obtained elsewhere providing it gives the same level of cover.

Fixed equipment on the crag has not been installed by the Clifford Estate Company Ltd and is not the responsibility of The Clifford Estate Company Ltd. Please be aware that the fixed equipment is not checked or maintained by the Clifford Estate Company Ltd and the Clifford Estate Company Ltd accepts no liability for the death or injury of any person involved in climbing arising from fixed equipment failure.

Do not light fires - in the past this has caused damage to plants and the local bat colony, and could gain climbers a poor reputation if it happens in future.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 4 April to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

A nesting owl has been reported near Stalactite Direct - avoid this and nearby routes until the young birds have fledged (likely to be in mid-late June). 
49m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A steady first pitch accesses a memorable, exposed traverse on its upper pitch. Start as for The Spider.
1) 4b, 20m. From the ledge at 3m head up the long groove to ledges. Traverse right to a belay below the corner of Scar.
2) 5a, 30m. Make a rising traverse leftwards to reach a short corner on the right side of a block overhang. Move up the corner to gain a ledge above the block overhang. Make an exposed traverse left below a bulge to reach cracks and continue more easily to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A fine climb. The exposed crux on P2 with its blind reach around the corner thwarts many aspirants...

FA. F.Cannings 1965.

Ticklists

South Devon Stars: Diff - HVS , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200.

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Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Chudleigh Rocks - South Face

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 22
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 24
Votes cast 22
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Climbers' Club Direct

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(The Dewerstone)

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