Rockfax Description
A fingery exercise on excellent rock. Its name was apt as the harbinger of terror when it was graded E1. Start just left of the arete, below a peg at 5m.
1) 5b, 17m. A very slippery start gains the peg and some small wires. Traverse left with difficulty for 5m on small holds to an easing at a thin vertical crack. Climb the crack and move rightwards to a large belay ledge.
2) 5a, 16m. Move up and stand on a block on the left, peg. Step right into an open groove and climb it past some poor rock and a very wobbly but keyed-in small block to finish up easier ground. © Rockfax
FA. I. McMorrin 1965.
Littlejohn South West Climbs , West Country Climbs , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , Devon and surrounding counties 50 E1 and some E2 and 1 E3 and an E4
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
Iain Weymouth | 23 Apr, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Phew! Polished start with sustained fingery moves, P1 felt like 5c to me! P2 very good and a doddle in comparison. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Phew! Polished start with sustained fingery moves, P1 felt like 5c to me! P2 very good and a doddle in comparison. |
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Grade: E2 5c ***
(Chudleigh Rocks - South Face)