Rockfax Description
A mighty popular pitch needing care in its lower reaches. Start below a short crack in a bulge and shallow scoop. Climb the crack and scoop to a good hold and some gear above. Continue on well-spaced but positive holds to a steep finishing sequence. © Rockfax
FA. K. Marsden 27.7.93 27/Jul/1993.
West Country Climbs , Ultimate E2 ticklist , Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist , CUC Climbing Club, Part 2: Hidden Gems, Adventures & Harder Offerings , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , Paul Dearden's classic rock climbs , Culm Along , Starred routes S-E2, North Devon , Top 25 E Grades in the southwest , South West in Extremis , Devon and surrounding counties, 51 E1, some E2, 1 E3 and an E9 , Devon and surrounding counties 50 E2 and some E3 and a few E4 and an E5 , Cianchi's Hit List
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Misha | 18 Jun, 2022 |
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βeta: Gear for the abseil above the route - nuts 2 or 3, 7 and 9, cams 0.3 and 0.4, peg. 40m would be fine including for rigging. Or trail from large blocks up the slope but then there’s risk of sending down choss and probably need 60m. | ||
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βeta: Gear for the abseil above the route - nuts 2 or 3, 7 and 9, cams 0.3 and 0.4, peg. 40m would be fine including for rigging. Or trail from large blocks up the slope but then there’s risk of sending down choss and probably need 60m. |
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Tall Oak | 26 Jul, 2021 |
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βeta: Very cool climb. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Very cool climb. |
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Joemullett24 | 19 Jul, 2021 |
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βeta: Beautiful, marked a loose block halfway up the diagonal crack with an x | ||
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βeta: Beautiful, marked a loose block halfway up the diagonal crack with an x |
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Masterbeta | 18 Jul, 2021 |
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βeta: There is a very loose block about halfway up. | βeta? | |
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βeta: There is a very loose block about halfway up. |
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Master Chief | 20 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: Undercut flake right at the top came off in my hands today. Luckily no one was hurt! Has left a few loose bits! Doesn't effect grade! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Undercut flake right at the top came off in my hands today. Luckily no one was hurt! Has left a few loose bits! Doesn't effect grade! |
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Fiend | 12 Aug, 2007 |
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βeta: Does what it says on the tin. Standard for the grade if bold at the start, classic wall climbing. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Does what it says on the tin. Standard for the grade if bold at the start, classic wall climbing. |
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chris j | 15 Jun, 2006 |
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βeta: Fantastic route! Gear is good the whole way up, just a little spaced at the start (though not dangerously so, reasonable cam placements). Nice technical climbing, good rests all over the place, strenuous for the last 20 feet. Not sure about the deceptively loose holds, didn't find anything particularly worrying... | βeta? | |
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βeta: Fantastic route! Gear is good the whole way up, just a little spaced at the start (though not dangerously so, reasonable cam placements). Nice technical climbing, good rests all over the place, strenuous for the last 20 feet. Not sure about the deceptively loose holds, didn't find anything particularly worrying... |
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NuclearNev | 15 May, 2006 |
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βeta: Take car, this route has several deceptively loose holds waiting for some newby bolt jockey to rip out. I have done it twice in the last couple of weeks and you defeintely need to chose your gear and hand placements carefully (particularily at 2/3 height on the largish finger flake, which is very hollow sounding). | βeta? | |
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βeta: Take car, this route has several deceptively loose holds waiting for some newby bolt jockey to rip out. I have done it twice in the last couple of weeks and you defeintely need to chose your gear and hand placements carefully (particularily at 2/3 height on the largish finger flake, which is very hollow sounding). |
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JasonG | 15 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: Superb route. Poor protection low down, don't waste energy, press on and good gear and excellent moves follow. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Superb route. Poor protection low down, don't waste energy, press on and good gear and excellent moves follow. |
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Grade: E2 5b ***
(Great Zawn)