30m.

Rockfax Description
Brilliant wall climbing on good rock. Start at a boulder below a wide horizontal crack at 3m. From the wide crack move onto the wall above via a pocket up and right. Follow the wall on good holds to the wide mid-height break of The Smile. Traverse the wide break left for 5m until a couple of metres before the broken niche on The Smile. Move up slightly right and climb the fingery wall that gradually eases to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The peg has been removed. There is adequate protection available.

FA. C. Nicholson 16.8.84 16/Aug/1984.

Ticklists

Great Wall Climbs of the UK , West Country Climbs , Ultimate E3 ticklist , Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist , CUC Climbing Club, Part 2: Hidden Gems, Adventures & Harder Offerings , Best of the rest and the ones that got away , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , Culm Along , UK Trad , South West in Extremis , Cianchi's Hit List

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User Date Notes
hornbywill 23 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Incredible, really low crux
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βeta: Incredible, really low crux
Alwaysinjured 31 Jul, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: ‘Good rest in the break’ can extend to a full hands off knee-bar for those longish in the leg - very useful before questing the headwall
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βeta: ‘Good rest in the break’ can extend to a full hands off knee-bar for those longish in the leg - very useful before questing the headwall
dpalmer1961 1 May, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Superb
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βeta: Superb
Fiend 12 Aug, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: It is a BIT bold at the start - you're quite close to the boulders. Another classic Sharpnose wall climb, made amenable by the good rest in the break. Getting to and past the peg requires some gusto, the finish is very nice.
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βeta: It is a BIT bold at the start - you're quite close to the boulders. Another classic Sharpnose wall climb, made amenable by the good rest in the break. Getting to and past the peg requires some gusto, the finish is very nice.
Climber_Bill 8 Jun, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Not bold at all. Fantastic route, good moves all the way to the top.
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βeta: Not bold at all. Fantastic route, good moves all the way to the top.
NuclearNev 15 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: This route is NOT bold at the start. All you have to do is place a small friend diagonally in the diagonal finger buckets and it is safe. Quite a soft touch for E3 IMO.
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βeta: This route is NOT bold at the start. All you have to do is place a small friend diagonally in the diagonal finger buckets and it is safe. Quite a soft touch for E3 IMO.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Lower Sharpnose Point

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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 75
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 73
Votes cast 63
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Gillian

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Sennen)

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