200m, 6 pitches. Beautiful climbing up a finger crack. T.D 200m
Descent by abseil down Merlin’s Wand
The steep overhanging chimney crack which starts to the right of Merlin’s Wand.
‘Pitch 1: The first part of this pitch feels about E1 with a difficult to place large (cam 5) inside the chimney. Follow the line as the steepness relents & belay to the back of the corner recess eventually (we had 60m ropes). Take the left hand crack for the start of the next pitch, crossing Merlin’s Wand. Great climbing on the soaring crackline on the upper art of this route. The crux start move to the 6a pitch is more like 6b, with a distinctly memorably hold! (I won’t spoil all the fun). Above, the F5 pitch turns out to be very adventurous E2 climbing in an E3 situation. Fantastic exposed climbing on this final very steep pitch to the summit, (we finished R/W’s on the final move) but definately not F5. Head over the back of the dome to find ab points eventually to join Merlins Wand. Very memorable route’.

C & Y Remy 01/Nov/1986.

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Le Grec

Grade: TD ***
(Wadi Rum)

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