Restricted Access

Access to the crag is sensitive given that is is very close to nearby houses - residents have in the past confronted climbers and asked them to leave.

Please make a particular effort to be quiet at this crag (especially avoiding shouting and bad language), take all litter home with you and don't use the crag or it's surrounds as a toilet. Keeping a low profile here is a good idea to help develop good realtionships with local residents and avoid access issues in the future.

Two useful links for further info are the online version of the Cicerone Leicestershire Climbs guidebook and the new Leicestershire Climbs website.

Sit start on a sidepull and undercut crimp below the start of Sorcerer’s Apprentice. Follow diagonal rising line of undercuts to junction with the Sorceress.
Commonly climbed with the use of knee bars and knee pads now, reducing the original grade of 7C+/8A to a gentle 7C.

Ticklists

WUCC Must Do Local Climbs , Summer Bouldering in the UK - 7's

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User Date Notes
Joe Lawson 22 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: 7C/+ with knees
Show beta
βeta: 7C/+ with knees

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High f8A
Mid f8A
Low f8A
High f7C+
Mid f7C+
Low f7C+
High f7C
Mid f7C
Low f7C
High f7B+
Mid f7B+
Low f7B+
Votes cast 37
Votes cast 33
Style of Ascent
Bouldered
Not Set
Redpoint
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Cowabunga

Grade: f7C ***
(Cademan Wood and Broad Hill)

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