Restricted Access
The whole Eglwyseg escarpment is both a Site Of Special Scientific Interest. This means that any deliberate or reckless damage or disturbance to the features of the site (inc. to nesting birds, vegetation clearance or drilling) could be regarded as a criminal act.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 February to 15 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Restrictions normally apply from the route "Black & Blue" to the far south side of the crag ("Freshly Dug") inclusive - all routes between and including these routes are usually restricted from Feb 15th until July 15th. Look out for marker posts on the cliff base to confirm the restrictions. All routes on the right hand side of Nemesis wall sector and all of Dawn Buttress sector are affected by this restriction.
Rockfax Description
An awesome pitch tackling the thin crack and flake-line bounding the left side of the Nemesis Wall. Extremely sustained and varied climbing throughout. One of the original protection pegs is no longer in place and the pitch is now more strenuous because it's difficult to arrange alternative nut protection. Pull up to the base of the line and follow the crack steeply to where it curves and fades. A thin traverse left past a bolt eventually gains easier ground. The right-slanting crack above is still tricky. © Rockfax
FA. Stuart Cathcart 10.5.78 10/May/1978.
Ticklists
Ultimate E5 ticklist , Paul Dearden's classic rock climbs , Clwyd Limestone *** Routes
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Craig Arthur
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Fin Wall
Grade: E5 6b ***
(Pandy Quarry)