Abseil from the top of Brazen Butress.
This crag is not in the MoD range. There are some bird nests in the Chimney area ( behind Brazen Buttress) but climbing is unrestricted at present as long as climbers minimise disturbance - i.e. don't hang around any longer than necessary where birds are flying in and out of the area. Bird nesting can vary a lot here from year to year - please do a visual check before starting your route, particularly around 'The Cracks' to 'Star Gate' area. A sign will be placed above Brazen Buttress if there is a seasonal restriction in place and this website will be updated.
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Rockfax Description
No climbing 1 March to 1 August because of nesting birds.
A seminal route in many climber's careers; as your arms become tired, the holds just get bigger and bigger! Start below the groove as for Deep Space. Climb the groove, which is surprisingly technical and slabby, until a line of jugs leads out right to another groove. Follow this, with most of the Atlantic Ocean beneath you, then move right into an easier finishing crack. © Rockfax
FA. P.Littlejohn, R.Harrison Mar/1977.
Extreme Rock , Pembroke Rockfax Top 50 , 100 best limestone climbs in Britain , Ultimate E3 ticklist , The Best of Pembroke , The 30 best E3 routes in the UK? , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Becky's ticklist , Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5 , 30 For My 30s , Pembroke Hard/Extreme Rock , 100 Pat Littlejohn Masterpieces , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
Julian Wedd | 2008 |
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βeta: Fantastic route | ||
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βeta: Fantastic route |
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Grade: E3 5c ***
(Mother Carey's Kitchen)