Restricted Access
Abseil from the top of Brazen Butress.
This crag is not in the MoD range. There are some bird nests in the Chimney area ( behind Brazen Buttress) but climbing is unrestricted at present as long as climbers minimise disturbance - i.e. don't hang around any longer than necessary where birds are flying in and out of the area. Bird nesting can vary a lot here from year to year - please do a visual check before starting your route, particularly around 'The Cracks' to 'Star Gate' area. A sign will be placed above Brazen Buttress if there is a seasonal restriction in place and this website will be updated.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Rockfax Description
There are a number of ways to climb the chimney none of which can be described as 'ordinary'. This variation starts in the through cave, below a crack in the back wall of Brazen Buttress (opposite 'Deep Space').
1) 5a, 15m. Climb a small groove to the crack and follow this leftwards to a stance on the arete.
2) 5a, 20m. Move uo then bridge across the cleft onto the lip of the overhang opposite. Chimney up the inside of the cleft above and move out to join 'Deep Space' to finish. Alternative finish: Brittle Nerve E2 5c (P.Littlejohn 26.9.77). Move left from the stance, past a hole. Trend left to the arete then move back right and climb the wobbly wall to the top. © Rockfax
Feedback
There is no feedback for this climb.
Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Mother Carey's Kitchen
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Cool for Cats
Grade: E1 5b ***
(Stennis Head)