Restricted Access
Abseil from the top of Brazen Butress.
This crag is not in the MoD range. There are some bird nests in the Chimney area ( behind Brazen Buttress) but climbing is unrestricted at present as long as climbers minimise disturbance - i.e. don't hang around any longer than necessary where birds are flying in and out of the area. Bird nesting can vary a lot here from year to year - please do a visual check before starting your route, particularly around 'The Cracks' to 'Star Gate' area. A sign will be placed above Brazen Buttress if there is a seasonal restriction in place and this website will be updated.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Rockfax Description
A fine route but be aware that it is the easiest way out and can feel harder in bad conditions. Best described as HS climbing in a VS situation. The wall just left of the through cave. Climb cracks in the wall to a triangular niche (historical belay). Move right out of this and follow more cracks to the top. © Rockfax
FA. L.Noble, C.Mortlock 31/Dec/1968.
Ticklists
Connoisseur's Classic Rock , Best Multi-pitch Severe and Hard Severe , Pembroke VDiff-HVS , Beginners Pembroke , Wales Trip - 2022 , Pembs Classics
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| eldre070 | 20 Sep, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Bottom harder than the 3D top. Felt HS 4b to me all day. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Bottom harder than the 3D top. Felt HS 4b to me all day. |
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| adz_c | 2 Sep, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: The abseil in is bloody scary if you end up over the through cave. You want to make sure the tide isn't in too far before you commit over the edge and try to stay a bit to the left when descending from the ab stake. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The abseil in is bloody scary if you end up over the through cave. You want to make sure the tide isn't in too far before you commit over the edge and try to stay a bit to the left when descending from the ab stake. |
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| neuromancer | 17 Jul, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Quite a lot of big loose rocks in the upper section. Bottom twin cracks are almost hvs; unless you can jam. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Quite a lot of big loose rocks in the upper section. Bottom twin cracks are almost hvs; unless you can jam. |
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| Alan James - Rockfax | 9 Sep, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: I have bumped these up to HS to reflect the voting. For some perspective it is worth noting that this route was given Severe in 1968 and stayed that way in every guidebook until 2011/12. It also received no stars for most of that time so didn't see many ascents. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I have bumped these up to HS to reflect the voting. For some perspective it is worth noting that this route was given Severe in 1968 and stayed that way in every guidebook until 2011/12. It also received no stars for most of that time so didn't see many ascents. |
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| Sam and will | 3 Nov, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: did this int he summer, definately a top end severe and a quality route in an exciting place! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: did this int he summer, definately a top end severe and a quality route in an exciting place! |
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| chris wyatt | 2 Nov, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Not S more like VS (and I've voted for lots of downgrades too) | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Not S more like VS (and I've voted for lots of downgrades too) |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Mother Carey's Kitchen
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Threadneedle Street
Grade: HS ***
(Mother Carey's Kitchen)