Abseil from the top of Brazen Butress.
This crag is not in the MoD range. There are some bird nests in the Chimney area ( behind Brazen Buttress) but climbing is unrestricted at present as long as climbers minimise disturbance - i.e. don't hang around any longer than necessary where birds are flying in and out of the area. Bird nesting can vary a lot here from year to year - please do a visual check before starting your route, particularly around 'The Cracks' to 'Star Gate' area. A sign will be placed above Brazen Buttress if there is a seasonal restriction in place and this website will be updated.
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Rockfax Description
A superb crack in the wall right of Crithmum which is better now that Crithmum is further away! Climb Crithmum to the base of its upper corner then step up right into the crack. This gives sustained and interesting climbing with one tricky section. A gem! © Rockfax
FA. G.Gibson, H.Gibson 28/May/1987.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Kiddie68 | 25 Aug, 2023 |
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βeta: Great route. Big cams useful for middle crackline, but not essential. Upper wall sustained but can rest occasionally for good wires. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Great route. Big cams useful for middle crackline, but not essential. Upper wall sustained but can rest occasionally for good wires. |
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Tall Oak | 20 Sep, 2022 |
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βeta: Nice one Max! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Nice one Max! |
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Legs | 20 Sep, 2022 |
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βeta: Amazing jams and good gear. Took me a few times to work out the crux. Glad to get this. Inspired by the picture in the guide. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Amazing jams and good gear. Took me a few times to work out the crux. Glad to get this. Inspired by the picture in the guide. |
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eldre070 | 21 Sep, 2021 |
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βeta: Dave thought he was on Meridian. Only found one section too much. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Dave thought he was on Meridian. Only found one section too much. |
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Exocet | 24 Aug, 2005 |
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βeta: I too thought I was on Meridian, trying to escape the horror show that is now Crithmum. (August 05) Glad to hear that other people hadn't heard about its fate. Although I used to lead E2, the thin, unprotected moves I soon encountered once the crack ran out were too much for the current wimpy me, and I made moves right and right again and ended up in what turned out to be Meridian. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: I too thought I was on Meridian, trying to escape the horror show that is now Crithmum. (August 05) Glad to hear that other people hadn't heard about its fate. Although I used to lead E2, the thin, unprotected moves I soon encountered once the crack ran out were too much for the current wimpy me, and I made moves right and right again and ended up in what turned out to be Meridian. |
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Grade: E2 5b ***
(Iron Age Fort)