Abseil from the top of Brazen Butress.
This crag is not in the MoD range. There are some bird nests in the Chimney area ( behind Brazen Buttress) but climbing is unrestricted at present as long as climbers minimise disturbance - i.e. don't hang around any longer than necessary where birds are flying in and out of the area. Bird nesting can vary a lot here from year to year - please do a visual check before starting your route, particularly around 'The Cracks' to 'Star Gate' area. A sign will be placed above Brazen Buttress if there is a seasonal restriction in place and this website will be updated.
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Rockfax Description
A good route which takes a line up the cracked wall starting as for Crithmum. Move up a crack, trend rightwards out of Crithmum, to a square-cut niche in the centre of the wall. Follow the twin cracks above to the top. © Rockfax
FA. J.Perrin, C.Mortlock 23/Dec/1968.
Pembroke VDiff-HVS , Orange Spot Pembroke , UK Holiday Plans , Beginners Pembroke , Wales Trip - 2022 , UWTSD Rock , Pembs Classics
User | Date | Notes | ||
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chris wyatt | 1 Aug, 2023 |
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βeta: Nice with the bottom crozzly start of sunsmoke. maybe hvs. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Nice with the bottom crozzly start of sunsmoke. maybe hvs. |
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Derek Furze | 17 Sep, 2021 |
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βeta: Enjoyed belaying with my feet in a rock pool watching the little fish explore their domain | βeta? | |
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βeta: Enjoyed belaying with my feet in a rock pool watching the little fish explore their domain |
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Dizz | 4 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: Big scary block at the top. Care required! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Big scary block at the top. Care required! |
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Emlyn Price | 27 Jun, 2020 |
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βeta: loose flake/ jug removed on crux, potentially making route harder for the shorter | ||
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βeta: loose flake/ jug removed on crux, potentially making route harder for the shorter |
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Pixie-Andy | 8 May, 2019 |
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βeta: Large loose hold avoid pulling or putting sling on and preferably avoid standing on it. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Large loose hold avoid pulling or putting sling on and preferably avoid standing on it. |
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chris wyatt | 2 Nov, 2005 |
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βeta: Make sure you really traverse into it or you will end up on an E2 | βeta? | |
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βeta: Make sure you really traverse into it or you will end up on an E2 |
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Grade: VS 4b ***
(Saddle Head)