Rockfax Description
The original route of the buttress which follows a great line. Its best bits now feature in other routes but it is still worthwhile.
1) 4b, 25m. As for One Step in the Clouds (p.278 ).
2) 5c, 25m. Move up and right (as for Diadic) but continue rightwards on the lip of a roof. A short stiff pull over a roof as for The Weaver leads to a small ledge on the lip. Break right up the steep groove of Cream, which leads to the Vector cave.
3) 4b, 10m. Continue along the same diagonal line past the spike belay of Cream and right to the sloping ledge stance on Void. Keep going to a tree in the gully and abseil off, or...
4) 5c, 18m. Finish up The Snake for a more sustained 3-star experience. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist

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Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Wasp

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Craig y Castell (Tremadog))

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