Abseil from the top of Brazen Butress.
This crag is not in the MoD range. There are some bird nests in the Chimney area ( behind Brazen Buttress) but climbing is unrestricted at present as long as climbers minimise disturbance - i.e. don't hang around any longer than necessary where birds are flying in and out of the area. Bird nesting can vary a lot here from year to year - please do a visual check before starting your route, particularly around 'The Cracks' to 'Star Gate' area. A sign will be placed above Brazen Buttress if there is a seasonal restriction in place and this website will be updated.
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Rockfax Description
The wall between Zeppelin and the corner contains a similar route to Zeppelin but without all the jugs. The fixed gear can be backed up where needed. Climb the corner right of Zeppelin to a bulge. Make hard moves up this to a rest. More hard climbing leads right across the roof, then pull back left to a rest on the stance of Zeppelin. The top section is easier but still steep. Around sport 7b+.
It is possible to sample the wild upper wall at E5 6b by breaking right from Zeppelin on the shared ledge. © Rockfax
FA. S.Monks, P.Bingham 17/Jun/1991.
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Grade: E7 6b ***
(Huntsman's Leap)