Restricted Access

Abseil from the top of Brazen Butress. 

This crag is not in the MoD range. There are some bird nests in the Chimney area ( behind Brazen Buttress) but climbing is unrestricted at present as long as climbers minimise disturbance - i.e. don't hang around any longer than necessary where birds are flying in and out of the area.  Bird nesting can vary a lot here from year to year - please do a visual check before starting your route, particularly around 'The Cracks' to 'Star Gate' area.  A sign will be placed above Brazen Buttress if there is a seasonal restriction in place and this website will be updated.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

35m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A Pembroke classic which soars up and out over the sea with more buckets than a garden centre. It is usually done in one pitch but can be split at a small stance if the tide threatens. Start beneath a line of grooves 5m left of the corner.
1) 5c, 20m. Climb up to the base of the first groove and follow it to a bulge. Power around this then swing up and right to a jutting flake (hands-off rest possible!). Continue up cracks to a well-positioned stance.
2) 5b, 15m. Pull into the upper groove and follow it more easily to the top. Stake belay well back. © Rockfax

FA. P.Littlejohn, R.Harrison 13/Aug/1977.

Ticklists

Pembroke Rockfax Top 50 , Ultimate E3 ticklist , The Best of Pembroke , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5 , Hard Rock 2020 , Pembroke Hard/Extreme Rock , 100 Pat Littlejohn Masterpieces , Pembs '21 , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , Cianchi's Hit List

Feedback

User Date Notes
Misha 31 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Thread below the crux could do with replacing and the tat on the peg above the crux is past its sell by date but there’s other gear available in both cases. The other threads are currently good, including on the belay. There’s currently a nut 8 just above the post crux rest - should come out with some hammering if someone happens to have a hex to hand.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Thread below the crux could do with replacing and the tat on the peg above the crux is past its sell by date but there’s other gear available in both cases. The other threads are currently good, including on the belay. There’s currently a nut 8 just above the post crux rest - should come out with some hammering if someone happens to have a hex to hand.
FaffmasterG 17 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Got cam stuck right at the bottom of the route (silver camalot size 4). If anyone is able to retrieve please get in touch, but I'm not feeling overly optimistic!
βeta?
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βeta: Got cam stuck right at the bottom of the route (silver camalot size 4). If anyone is able to retrieve please get in touch, but I'm not feeling overly optimistic!
GDes 29 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: gobsmacking. a collection of the biggest holds in the universe.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: gobsmacking. a collection of the biggest holds in the universe.
hutch 26 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Classic! Definitely worth linking the two pitches together.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Classic! Definitely worth linking the two pitches together.
Chad123 25 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Surely one of the best E3's in Pembroke when done as one, very long glorious pitch? First pitch was a bit pumpy for me though and took some good swooping falls! Good tip, use the big flakes rather than avoiding them!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Surely one of the best E3's in Pembroke when done as one, very long glorious pitch? First pitch was a bit pumpy for me though and took some good swooping falls! Good tip, use the big flakes rather than avoiding them!

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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 66
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 65
Votes cast 63
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Male Bonding

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Stackpole Head)

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