Restricted Access

ROCK FALL JANUARY 2018

To the left of Stackpole Grooves. the Routes Sea Eagle to Shy Talk City have gone as well as the top pitch of The Hawk.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction covers the W Face, S Face (inc. Stackpole Point, Cracks Wall, Leaning Tower and Promontory), E Face (inc. Main Face and White Pillar) and from The Gilt Edge/Mussel Up to Poisoned Love and is normally marked by red cliff top markers.

 

 

39m.

Rockfax Description
One of the best E3s in Pembroke! It manages to cover some incredibly steep ground without really pulling over any roofs. The traverse is very pumpy and not a good one to fall off if you are seconding! Best done in two pitches to increase communication and avoid rope drag and tide problems.
1) 5c, 20m. Climb the corner, past a couple of bulges, to a line of breaks below a roof. Traverse left along the breaks to below the main corner. Pull up to a ledge on the left and hanging belay.
2) 5c, 25m. Climb the main corner all the way to the top. © Rockfax

FA. P.Littlejohn, C.King 02/May/1978.

Ticklists

Pembroke Rockfax Top 50 , Ultimate E3 ticklist , The Best of Pembroke , The Five Best E3 Routes in the UK? , The 30 best E3 routes in the UK? , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5 , 30 For My 30s , Best of the rest and the ones that got away , Paul Dearden's classic rock climbs , 100 Pat Littlejohn Masterpieces , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3

Feedback

User Date Notes
Bethan May Davies 2 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Bit of a grapple but a brilliant route!
Show beta
βeta: Bit of a grapple but a brilliant route!

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Stackpole Head

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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 11
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 12
Votes cast 10
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Play Misty for Me

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Misty Walls)

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