Restricted Access

This crag is not in the MoD range. Previously the whole west side of the crag was subject to seasonal restrictions but as of July 2011, following detailed negotiations with the National Trust and the Countryside Council for Wales, the seasonal restrictions were removed. However birds have recently returned to nest on the right wall of Diedre Sud so a smaller restricted zone has been introduced.

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

Seasonal Climbing Restriction from and including  'Diedre Sud' to 'Flax of a Dream' due to nesting Razorbills.  Birds are nesting in the upper break running right from 'Diedre Sud'.  Look for cliff top signs but be prepared to adjust plans: 'Blowin' in the Wind' and 'Snozwanger' can be accessd direct by abseil down the wall.  If climbing 'Heart of Darkness', please finish up 'Blowin' in the Wind' or 'Snozwanger', not 'New Morning' or 'Diedre Sud'.

Please check the actual location of nests by looking over the edge from above 'Blowing in the Wind'. If the Razorbills are using the ledges right next to Diedre Sud, please do not climb 'Heart of Darkness' or 'Snozwanger' or 'Blowing in the Wind'.

Signs will be in place at the cliff for any updates.

Also, due to the possibility of nesting choughs in the dank cave left of the route 'Fools Rush In', please avoid hanging around near this cave.  

 

45m.

Rockfax Description
A better route than its left-hand neighbour. Start below a slim right-facing corner which is just above the right-hand of two holes above the juggy traverse line. Climb the corner to the break. Continue straight up the wall above, past some breaks and a crystal pocket, to the roof. Pull over then step right to gain a flake. Climb the flake for 5m then swing left to a rest. Continue up a small groove above to finish. © Rockfax

FA. G.Gibson, R.Thomas 20/Feb/1987.

Ticklists

101Pembroke Extremes , The Best of Pembroke

Feedback

User Date Notes
JulesV 21 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: As others have said, follow the description not the topo. The topo is wrong in both the 2012 CC guide and the new select guide, which show it going up a corner below a roof at the top. The described route, including flake which there is a pic of Ged Desforges on in the 2012 guide, is actually on the line shown as Seaside Salamander in that guide. The description is a bit misleading too as it says to \"follow the flake rightwards for 5m\". Actually the flake goes more or less straight up, trending only slightly right. Really great line when you find it!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: As others have said, follow the description not the topo. The topo is wrong in both the 2012 CC guide and the new select guide, which show it going up a corner below a roof at the top. The described route, including flake which there is a pic of Ged Desforges on in the 2012 guide, is actually on the line shown as Seaside Salamander in that guide. The description is a bit misleading too as it says to "follow the flake rightwards for 5m". Actually the flake goes more or less straight up, trending only slightly right. Really great line when you find it!

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Mowing Word

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Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 8
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 6
Votes cast 7
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Grey English Morning

Grade: E5 6a ***
(Stennis Head)

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