Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

In addition to the agreed restrictions noted below, Peregrines can also nest here and occasionally an agreed restriction is also in place for the routes ‘Sound of the Suburbs’ to ‘Endangered Species’ inclusive. - see signs by the abseil stakes. 

Seasonal Restriction  from 'Meatloaf' to 'Breaking the Habit' inclusive - this is the buttress to the right (east) of 'The Hole' and below the red pot at the cliff top.

RESTRICTION LIFTED JULY 3rd 2023

 

 

45m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Another brilliant and bold climb. Start below the twin groove line.
1) 6b, 20m. Climb the lower groove and move right to a spike. Step back into the upper groove, lace the bottom with gear and start climbing it until you reach the ledge or your confidence fails!
2) 5b, 25m. Move left along the ledge and finish as for Ships... © Rockfax

FA. J. de Montjoye, I.Sayers 02/May/1982.

Ticklists

Caff's 100 Ace E5s

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Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 2
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 2
Votes cast 2
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Toproped
Onsighted
Not Set
Route of Interest
The One-Eyed Man

Grade: E5 6a ***
(Mother Carey's Kitchen)

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