Restricted Access

Update: June 2023 - there is a Rock Pipit nesting at the base of the crack on 'Vice is Nice'. Please take care in this area to minimise disturbance - you can climb the route but avoid placing protection or jamming in this part of the crack.  The nest is obvious and can be avoided with a bit of care.  The restriction on the D-Day area has been lifted for the 2023 season as of 3rd July.

Beware of unstable rock in the following sections:

Below Munchies - rock fall from about 2014

John Wayne/Charisma - Loose rock in first 6m

Test Case - the base of the right side of the big flake has fallen off but following the left side of flake is fine

D-Day - large loose blocks directly above the mid height Belay 

April 2021 - Space Cadet - be aware that some blocks have fallen out of the steep section above the ledge. - it's been climbed since at the same grade but might have wobbly holds!

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

Choughs nesting on St Govan's Head and a seasonal restriction (1st March - 1st Aug.) now applies for the routes "Draught Dodger" to"  D-Day" inclusive. Climbers can still walk below these routes to access routes beyond the restricted area but please do not linger below this section. (See signs at abseil points)    RESTRICTION LIFTED JULY 3rd 2023 

Further right, the St. Govan's Head seasonal sea-bird climbing restriction (1st Mar - 1st Aug) continues to apply between Safety in Numbers and Aquarius/Zodiac . 

 

 

 

 

36m.

Rockfax Description
A superb route which follows an intricate line up the wall. Start in the centre of an undercut roof, below a left-trending groove line. Pull onto the wall, climb the groove then, at its top, step right into another groove and follow this to a roof. Move right around this then make a hard move back left above it to a flake/pillar which leads to the top. © Rockfax

FA. A.Sharp, P.Lewis, S.Lewis 24/Jun/1978.

Ticklists

Work Hard, Play Hard , Ultimate E2 ticklist , The Best of Pembroke , Becky's ticklist , UK Holiday Plans , Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5 , 2021 , Pembroke ticket , Pembs Ticklist

Feedback

User Date Notes
Kiddie68 5 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Ecstatic to get this clean first go. Never desperate, but sustained to the top. Excellent route!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Ecstatic to get this clean first go. Never desperate, but sustained to the top. Excellent route!
Tommy_shaw 4 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: One of the best routes I have ever done!!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: One of the best routes I have ever done!!
Furzy Sleight 16 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: However there are lots of good rests between the hard moves (definately nothing harder than 5b)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: However there are lots of good rests between the hard moves (definately nothing harder than 5b)
Furzy Sleight 16 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Yes - a real classic, best route ive done all year by far - very sustained but always interesting and never desperate (although that last groove could be a point of failure if you dont find a rest beforehand)
Show beta
βeta: Yes - a real classic, best route ive done all year by far - very sustained but always interesting and never desperate (although that last groove could be a point of failure if you dont find a rest beforehand)
SteveM 2 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: I lost count of the technical cruxes (four?). Each one different in it's own little way. This is a climb with everything (including the sting in the tail) to recommend it.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I lost count of the technical cruxes (four?). Each one different in it's own little way. This is a climb with everything (including the sting in the tail) to recommend it.
drcorbasisgod 9 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Agreed - E2 5b would be more accurate. I kept waiting for the "sting in the tail", and after leading Ricochet I expected more than I got. Not that I was disappointed though - an awesome climb!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Agreed - E2 5b would be more accurate. I kept waiting for the "sting in the tail", and after leading Ricochet I expected more than I got. Not that I was disappointed though - an awesome climb!
huwtj 25 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I think E2 5b is a better grade. I'm not sure where the 5c move is supposed to be but then I went straight through the final roof rather than traversing right and then left. Absolutely awesome route!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I think E2 5b is a better grade. I'm not sure where the 5c move is supposed to be but then I went straight through the final roof rather than traversing right and then left. Absolutely awesome route!
Chad123 25 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Total classic, varied and technical throughout, though no moves harder than 5b really. At the top you can either pull over the right end of the roof into the niche or traverse round it, steeper vs delicate, your choice! The final crack just requires a quick layback.
Show beta
βeta: Total classic, varied and technical throughout, though no moves harder than 5b really. At the top you can either pull over the right end of the roof into the niche or traverse round it, steeper vs delicate, your choice! The final crack just requires a quick layback.

Logged Ascents

982 users have logged this

Guidebooks for St. Govan's Head

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 150 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 151
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 151
Votes cast 142
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
First Blood

Grade: E2 5c ***
(St. Govan's East)

Loading Notifications...