Restricted Access
Update: June 2023 - there is a Rock Pipit nesting at the base of the crack on 'Vice is Nice'. Please take care in this area to minimise disturbance - you can climb the route but avoid placing protection or jamming in this part of the crack. The nest is obvious and can be avoided with a bit of care. B
Beware of unstable rock in the following sections:
Below Munchies - rock fall from about 2014
John Wayne/Charisma - Loose rock in first 6m
Test Case - the base of the right side of the big flake has fallen off but following the left side of flake is fine
D-Day - large loose blocks directly above the mid height Belay
April 2021 - Space Cadet - be aware that some blocks have fallen out of the steep section above the ledge. - it's been climbed since at the same grade but might have wobbly holds!
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Choughs nesting on St Govan's Head and a seasonal restriction (1st March - 1st Aug.) now applies for the routes "Draught Dodger" to" D-Day" inclusive. Climbers can still walk below these routes to access routes beyond the restricted area but please do not linger below this section. (See signs at abseil points)
Further right, the St. Govan's Head seasonal sea-bird climbing restriction (1st Mar - 1st Aug) continues to apply between Safety in Numbers and Aquarius/Zodiac .
Rockfax Description
The arete left of the big groove of Tactician usually has a tempting thread dangling from its upper section. Start as for Tactician but break left along a crack to a junction with War Games. Move right around the arete and then climb a hard crack to a ledge. Finish up the arete above in a magnificent position. © Rockfax
FA. G.Gibson, P.Harrison 03/May/1986.
Ticklists
Theo's Pembroke ticklist , 30 For My 30s , The Local Ticklist
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| James Oswald | 9 Apr, 2023 |
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βeta: If you climb the crux on the arete it\'s desperate, right of the arete is much easier. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: If you climb the crux on the arete it's desperate, right of the arete is much easier. |
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| ian bryant | 12 Aug, 2020 |
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βeta: Threads looked pretty good on 11.8.20 | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Threads looked pretty good on 11.8.20 |
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| Billg | 2 Jun, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Threads are getting old. Both would probably take 10mm rope. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Threads are getting old. Both would probably take 10mm rope. |
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| John Alcock | 26 Aug, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Wild. The thread wears easily over the winter and may need replacing regularly. There are nuts just below to back it up. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Wild. The thread wears easily over the winter and may need replacing regularly. There are nuts just below to back it up. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for St. Govan's Head
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Beat Surrender
Grade: E5 6b ***
(Mother Carey's Kitchen)