Restricted Access
Update: June 2023 - there is a Rock Pipit nesting at the base of the crack on 'Vice is Nice'. Please take care in this area to minimise disturbance - you can climb the route but avoid placing protection or jamming in this part of the crack. The nest is obvious and can be avoided with a bit of care. B
Beware of unstable rock in the following sections:
Below Munchies - rock fall from about 2014
John Wayne/Charisma - Loose rock in first 6m
Test Case - the base of the right side of the big flake has fallen off but following the left side of flake is fine
D-Day - large loose blocks directly above the mid height Belay
April 2021 - Space Cadet - be aware that some blocks have fallen out of the steep section above the ledge. - it's been climbed since at the same grade but might have wobbly holds!
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Choughs nesting on St Govan's Head and a seasonal restriction (1st March - 1st Aug.) now applies for the routes "Draught Dodger" to" D-Day" inclusive. Climbers can still walk below these routes to access routes beyond the restricted area but please do not linger below this section. (See signs at abseil points)
Further right, the St. Govan's Head seasonal sea-bird climbing restriction (1st Mar - 1st Aug) continues to apply between Safety in Numbers and Aquarius/Zodiac .
Rockfax Description
This thuggy route follows the huge flake crack in the centre of the buttress. It requires some large clanking gear to protect it. Start below the flake-crack, gain and climb it to the roof at the top and pass this on its left. © Rockfax
FA. P.Whillance, J.Lamb, D.Armstrong 12/Dec/1976.
Ticklists
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Chris Murray | 24 Jul, 2019 |
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βeta: Top is very loose. Take care not to dislodge rocks onto your belayer. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Top is very loose. Take care not to dislodge rocks onto your belayer. |
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| Fiend | 8 Apr, 2006 |
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βeta: All quite impressive - good line and good laybacking sections. There is some seriously dubious rock at the very top! | βeta? | |
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βeta: All quite impressive - good line and good laybacking sections. There is some seriously dubious rock at the very top! |
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| Furzy Sleight | 8 Apr, 2006 |
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βeta: some steep laybacking but with plenty of good rests - very enjoyable and steady route | βeta? | |
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βeta: some steep laybacking but with plenty of good rests - very enjoyable and steady route |
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| drcorbasisgod | 9 Oct, 2005 |
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βeta: I found this harder to lead than The Arrow, but of course it's difficult to compare as they are so different. Great route. | βeta? | |
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βeta: I found this harder to lead than The Arrow, but of course it's difficult to compare as they are so different. Great route. |
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| Jus | 15 Sep, 2005 |
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βeta: Awesome awesome awesome. One on the best laybacks I've been on. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Awesome awesome awesome. One on the best laybacks I've been on. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for St. Govan's Head
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Bohemian Bubblebath
Grade: HVS 4c ***
(Penally East)