Restricted Access

Update: June 2023 - there is a Rock Pipit nesting at the base of the crack on 'Vice is Nice'. Please take care in this area to minimise disturbance - you can climb the route but avoid placing protection or jamming in this part of the crack.  The nest is obvious and can be avoided with a bit of care.  The restriction on the D-Day area has been lifted for the 2023 season as of 3rd July.

Beware of unstable rock in the following sections:

Below Munchies - rock fall from about 2014

John Wayne/Charisma - Loose rock in first 6m

Test Case - the base of the right side of the big flake has fallen off but following the left side of flake is fine

D-Day - large loose blocks directly above the mid height Belay 

April 2021 - Space Cadet - be aware that some blocks have fallen out of the steep section above the ledge. - it's been climbed since at the same grade but might have wobbly holds!

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

Choughs nesting on St Govan's Head and a seasonal restriction (1st March - 1st Aug.) now applies for the routes "Draught Dodger" to"  D-Day" inclusive. Climbers can still walk below these routes to access routes beyond the restricted area but please do not linger below this section. (See signs at abseil points)    RESTRICTION LIFTED JULY 3rd 2023 

Further right, the St. Govan's Head seasonal sea-bird climbing restriction (1st Mar - 1st Aug) continues to apply between Safety in Numbers and Aquarius/Zodiac . 

 

 

 

 

42m.

Rockfax Description
A savage climb with a very uncomfortable crux. Follow Space Cadet to its first roof. Traverse right beneath this then pull over into a groove. Follow this to the next roof which is crossed with great difficulty. If you manage this, and your hands are still intact, then step out left to reach an easier finishing crack. © Rockfax

FA. R.Harrison, G.Uren 17/Jul/1981.

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Guidebooks for St. Govan's Head

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High E5
Mid E5
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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 5
High 6c
Mid 6c
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Votes cast 6
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Airship

Grade: E4 5c ***
(Mother Carey's Kitchen)

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