Restricted Access

Update: June 2023 - there is a Rock Pipit nesting at the base of the crack on 'Vice is Nice'. Please take care in this area to minimise disturbance - you can climb the route but avoid placing protection or jamming in this part of the crack.  The nest is obvious and can be avoided with a bit of care.  The restriction on the D-Day area has been lifted for the 2023 season as of 3rd July.

Beware of unstable rock in the following sections:

Below Munchies - rock fall from about 2014

John Wayne/Charisma - Loose rock in first 6m

Test Case - the base of the right side of the big flake has fallen off but following the left side of flake is fine

D-Day - large loose blocks directly above the mid height Belay 

April 2021 - Space Cadet - be aware that some blocks have fallen out of the steep section above the ledge. - it's been climbed since at the same grade but might have wobbly holds!

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

Choughs nesting on St Govan's Head and a seasonal restriction (1st March - 1st Aug.) now applies for the routes "Draught Dodger" to"  D-Day" inclusive. Climbers can still walk below these routes to access routes beyond the restricted area but please do not linger below this section. (See signs at abseil points)    RESTRICTION LIFTED JULY 3rd 2023 

Further right, the St. Govan's Head seasonal sea-bird climbing restriction (1st Mar - 1st Aug) continues to apply between Safety in Numbers and Aquarius/Zodiac . 

 

 

 

 

24m.

Rockfax Description
A popular route which is often found hard by people who climb it too directly. Start just left of the detached flake on the ledge. Climb up to the bulge then pull round virtually on the arete to gain the finger-traverse which leads back right. Move up and back left to gain the delightful finishing slab. © Rockfax

FA. S.Bancroft, B.Newman 05/Apr/1980.

Ticklists

World Graded List , Becky's ticklist , Soft Touches , 2021 , Pembs Ticklist

Feedback

User Date Notes
david morse 2 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: took a 10m lob. 3 wires ripped. be careful on top wall!!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: took a 10m lob. 3 wires ripped. be careful on top wall!!
drcorbasisgod 9 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I loved this route, and I felt like it warranted E2 mainly because of the slab near the top which is tricky to protect. The polish lower down is nowhere near as bad - just for example - as that on the start of Sunlover.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I loved this route, and I felt like it warranted E2 mainly because of the slab near the top which is tricky to protect. The polish lower down is nowhere near as bad - just for example - as that on the start of Sunlover.
John Alcock 25 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Nothing like as pleasant as years ago
Show beta
βeta: Nothing like as pleasant as years ago
Nick Smith - Climbers 8 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Great route with a bit of everything - overhang on jugs, some technical climbing at the bulge and then a delicate slab above.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great route with a bit of everything - overhang on jugs, some technical climbing at the bulge and then a delicate slab above.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for St. Govan's Head

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 163
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 154
Votes cast 144
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Space Odyssey

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Mother Carey's Kitchen)

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