Update: June 2023 - there is a Rock Pipit nesting at the base of the crack on 'Vice is Nice'. Please take care in this area to minimise disturbance - you can climb the route but avoid placing protection or jamming in this part of the crack. The nest is obvious and can be avoided with a bit of care. The restriction on the D-Day area has been lifted for the 2023 season as of 3rd July.
Beware of unstable rock in the following sections:
Below Munchies - rock fall from about 2014
John Wayne/Charisma - Loose rock in first 6m
Test Case - the base of the right side of the big flake has fallen off but following the left side of flake is fine
D-Day - large loose blocks directly above the mid height Belay
April 2021 - Space Cadet - be aware that some blocks have fallen out of the steep section above the ledge. - it's been climbed since at the same grade but might have wobbly holds!
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Choughs nesting on St Govan's Head and a seasonal restriction (1st March - 1st Aug.) now applies for the routes "Draught Dodger" to" D-Day" inclusive. Climbers can still walk below these routes to access routes beyond the restricted area but please do not linger below this section. (See signs at abseil points) RESTRICTION LIFTED JULY 3rd 2023
Further right, the St. Govan's Head seasonal sea-bird climbing restriction (1st Mar - 1st Aug) continues to apply between Safety in Numbers and Aquarius/Zodiac .
Rockfax Description
A popular route which is often found hard by people who climb it too directly. Start just left of the detached flake on the ledge. Climb up to the bulge then pull round virtually on the arete to gain the finger-traverse which leads back right. Move up and back left to gain the delightful finishing slab. © Rockfax
FA. S.Bancroft, B.Newman 05/Apr/1980.
World Graded List , Becky's ticklist , Soft Touches , 2021 , Pembs Ticklist
User | Date | Notes | ||
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david morse | 2 Apr, 2007 |
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βeta: took a 10m lob. 3 wires ripped. be careful on top wall!! | βeta? | |
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βeta: took a 10m lob. 3 wires ripped. be careful on top wall!! |
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drcorbasisgod | 9 Oct, 2005 |
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βeta: I loved this route, and I felt like it warranted E2 mainly because of the slab near the top which is tricky to protect. The polish lower down is nowhere near as bad - just for example - as that on the start of Sunlover. | βeta? | |
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βeta: I loved this route, and I felt like it warranted E2 mainly because of the slab near the top which is tricky to protect. The polish lower down is nowhere near as bad - just for example - as that on the start of Sunlover. |
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John Alcock | 25 Aug, 2005 |
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βeta: Nothing like as pleasant as years ago | ||
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βeta: Nothing like as pleasant as years ago |
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Nick Smith - Climbers | 8 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: Great route with a bit of everything - overhang on jugs, some technical climbing at the bulge and then a delicate slab above. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Great route with a bit of everything - overhang on jugs, some technical climbing at the bulge and then a delicate slab above. |
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Grade: E2 5b ***
(Mother Carey's Kitchen)