Restricted Access

Superb crag with many different sections. The restriction affects the routes Star Wars to The Deerhunter.  (2023 - this restriction has been lifted from July 3rd 2023)

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

Restriction, to protect nesting Choughs, affects the routes Star Wars to Deerhunter.  (Lifted for 2023) 

 

 

 

 

30m.

Rockfax Description
Start below the left-hand of two slim left-facing grooves in the wall below the high overhang. Climb up to the groove then step right to a short crack. Move up and left across the wall and then climb direct, just left of the overhang, to the ledge belay. © Rockfax

FA. I.Carr, M.Chapman, L.Wilson 26/Apr/1981.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Kiddie68 22 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Solid E2 every day of the week. Balancey on-your-toes stuff with reasonable but hard fort for gear until first decent rest above the short crack. Perhaps the conditions weren’t perfect as the ‘shiny’ rock in the lower section was damp and slippery; made me nervous! The Rockfax topo and description seems more accurate than Wired CC guide (apart from the grade where the new book is spot on!). Thoroughly enjoyed it though. Keelhaul next on list…!
βeta?
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βeta: Solid E2 every day of the week. Balancey on-your-toes stuff with reasonable but hard fort for gear until first decent rest above the short crack. Perhaps the conditions weren’t perfect as the ‘shiny’ rock in the lower section was damp and slippery; made me nervous! The Rockfax topo and description seems more accurate than Wired CC guide (apart from the grade where the new book is spot on!). Thoroughly enjoyed it though. Keelhaul next on list…!
PaulTanton 10 Apr, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Not E1. It's quite hard and the rock around the bulge is quite suspect. A fine route, handle with care
βeta?
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βeta: Not E1. It's quite hard and the rock around the bulge is quite suspect. A fine route, handle with care
Chad123 2 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Well E1 and a half it is then, starts like an E2, but soon eases up to an easier finish. If you look sideways for feet holds it's much easier and there is plenty of gear.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Well E1 and a half it is then, starts like an E2, but soon eases up to an easier finish. If you look sideways for feet holds it's much easier and there is plenty of gear.
drcorbasisgod 9 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Interestingly, the fax guide itself seems a little confused about the grade - check the picture over the page from the route description. Personally, I don't recall the gear being anything less than bomber.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Interestingly, the fax guide itself seems a little confused about the grade - check the picture over the page from the route description. Personally, I don't recall the gear being anything less than bomber.
Paul Evans 26 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Agree - bottom end E2, which is what it gets in the CC guide.
βeta?
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βeta: Agree - bottom end E2, which is what it gets in the CC guide.
John2 14 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I'd give it bottom end E2 myself - there's quite a hard and committing move low down leading to a sustained 5B section.
βeta?
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βeta: I'd give it bottom end E2 myself - there's quite a hard and committing move low down leading to a sustained 5B section.
pdhu 29 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Yes, an absorbing and technical 'hidden' gem. Whilst it lasts, quite a hard E1, the bottom third is very sustained, and the route finding is not always easy. A bit rattly at the top, but c'est la Pembroke.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Yes, an absorbing and technical 'hidden' gem. Whilst it lasts, quite a hard E1, the bottom third is very sustained, and the route finding is not always easy. A bit rattly at the top, but c'est la Pembroke.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Bosherston Head

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 75
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 70
Votes cast 66
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Barad

Grade: E1 5b ***
(St. David's Head East)

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