Restricted Access
Due to the tilted nature of the huge rock platform at the base of the cliff, retreat from routes on the SW and S faces is only possible for 2 - 3 hours before or after low tide. Night firing normally occurs on Tues & Thurs but can alternate to Mon & Wed. A large rock fall has affected some routes left of Surprise Attack.
2018 - another large rockfall has removed parts of routes in the 'Seafarers' area on the west side of the point.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Seaonal Restriction due to chough nesting: 'Nightmare on Lily Street' to 'Brain Drain' inclusive. This includes the Route 'Daydreams'.
Rockfax Description
A superb direct climb up the wall which provides a good but harder alternative to Daydreams. It can be started from the left but starting up pitch 1 of Daydreams is the original line if it is free.
1) 5b, 15m. As for Daydreams or climb in from Voyage Out and traverse right.
2) 5c, 32m. Follow the groove of Daydreams until level with a roof on the right. The original line traversed right from the stance then up to cross Daydreams. Step left and climb straight up the open grooves above to a large thread in the break below the roof. Move left again and make some powerful pulls through the roof on large undercuts. Climb the bubbly wall, past a couple of holes, to the top. © Rockfax
FA. G.Gibson, H.Gibson 08/Jun/1986.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mark Leicester | 16 Aug, 2023 |
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βeta: Hard for the grade and beware the top bubbly wall which is loose and short on gear. We traversed right to the more amenable Daydreams finish after several holds came off | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Hard for the grade and beware the top bubbly wall which is loose and short on gear. We traversed right to the more amenable Daydreams finish after several holds came off |
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| Frank the Husky | 19 Apr, 2006 |
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βeta: A very good route indeed, and one that keeps coming until the end! Can (and should) be done in one pitch! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: A very good route indeed, and one that keeps coming until the end! Can (and should) be done in one pitch! |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Mewsford Point
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Charenton Crack
Grade: E2 5b ***
(Mowing Word)