Restricted Access
Due to the tilted nature of the huge rock platform at the base of the cliff, retreat from routes on the SW and S faces is only possible for 2 - 3 hours before or after low tide. Night firing normally occurs on Tues & Thurs but can alternate to Mon & Wed. A large rock fall has affected some routes left of Surprise Attack.
2018 - another large rockfall has removed parts of routes in the 'Seafarers' area on the west side of the point.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Seaonal Restriction due to chough nesting: 'Nightmare on Lily Street' to 'Brain Drain' inclusive. This includes the Route 'Daydreams'.
Rockfax Description
The most popular line here follows the long groove line which is gained by a steep and impressive start. The climbing is a bit unbalanced but the line and situation more than make up for this. Start below and right of the main groove line.
1) 5a, 15m. Pull up and traverse left, then climb direct to the stance. All easier than it looks.
2) 5c, 32m. A technical little move up the slab above (microwires) gains the main groove. Follow this, trending leftwards at the top. A fine pitch. © Rockfax
FA. S.Lewis, C.Heard 10/Oct/1979.
Ticklists
Extreme Rock , 100 best limestone climbs in Britain , Ultimate E1 ticklist , UK Lonely Leads , The Best of Pembroke , 101Pembroke Extremes , 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs , UK Holiday Plans , Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5 , Pembroke Hard/Extreme Rock , Pembs '21 , Pembs Ticklist
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
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| ClimbingAlex | 15 Jul, 2019 |
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βeta: Did this in a oner, would recommend pitching it in two, the rope drag at the top was horrendous! | ||
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βeta: Did this in a oner, would recommend pitching it in two, the rope drag at the top was horrendous! |
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| aiyer | 4 May, 2019 |
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βeta: E2 5c in the new guidebook | βeta? | |
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βeta: E2 5c in the new guidebook |
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| Frank the Husky | 19 Apr, 2006 |
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βeta: There's no block these days, so the start is pretty steep and intimidating. | ||
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βeta: There's no block these days, so the start is pretty steep and intimidating. |
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| Alun | 18 Apr, 2006 |
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βeta: The crux moves aren't too difficult but feel very slippery and insecure for E1. Protection is okay. The remainder is a pleasing romp with a marvellous step out onto the slab higher up. | ||
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βeta: The crux moves aren't too difficult but feel very slippery and insecure for E1. Protection is okay. The remainder is a pleasing romp with a marvellous step out onto the slab higher up. |
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| Chad123 | 25 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: First pitch has a few steep pulls for 5a, no block to step off any more? Good pitch thjough very unbalanced, almost E2 for a few moves, then VS corner to the top! | ||
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βeta: First pitch has a few steep pulls for 5a, no block to step off any more? Good pitch thjough very unbalanced, almost E2 for a few moves, then VS corner to the top! |
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| craig h | 11 Feb, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Excellent route, if I remember right the technical little move is protected with small wires? & RP's. All routes here are effected by the tides so worth leaving an abseil rope in place. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Excellent route, if I remember right the technical little move is protected with small wires? & RP's. All routes here are effected by the tides so worth leaving an abseil rope in place. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Mewsford Point
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Silver Shadow
Grade: E2 5b ***
(Stackpole Head)