Rockfax Description
A superb and unusual route which is the most popular on the wall. It is actually considerably more strenuous than it looks, mainly because the cracks aren't the correct width for good jams. Start at the lower right-hand side of the wall, three metres left of a wide chimney with a large wedge of solid rock in it.
1) 5c, 25m. Climb up steep juggy rock to the base of the crack laced wall. Pull into the crack and paddle your way up it with a slight leftwards detour where it gets tricky. Continue to the blocky recess to belay. A powerful pitch that will feel 6a if at all damp.
2) 5b, 20m. Move up to a ledge on the left then climb straight up the cracks above. After 6m move left to a spike in a recess (on Rollerwall). Finish by passing the bulge above on its left. © Rockfax
FA. P.Littlejohn, G.Lewis 23/Mar/1980.
Ticklists
101Pembroke Extremes , Ultimate E4 ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5 , 100 Pat Littlejohn Masterpieces
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| John Alcock | 7 Mar, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Desperately strenuous..particularly if damp. One reachy move on sloppy jams used to stop E3 leaders dead... E4 is probably about right | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Desperately strenuous..particularly if damp. One reachy move on sloppy jams used to stop E3 leaders dead... E4 is probably about right |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Crystal Slabs Area
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Zero She Flies
Grade: E4 6a ***
(Raming Hole Area)