Rockfax Description
E1. A fine, and huge climb up the centre of the face, the first line on the cliff, put up in 1972. The route has over 500m of climbing and a lot of rambling - even fast teams will want to start early. The best start is to use the first pitch of Gorilas although the original start came in from the left in three grassy pitches.1) 6a, 45m. As for Gorilas en la roca.2) 2+, 40m. Scramble along the ledge, then up the ramp.3) 3, 40m. Contiue up the ramp as it steepens.4) 4+, 40m. Climb the slab moving right at half-height to reach a small stance below steeper rock.5) 6a, 45m. The crucial pitch contains plenty of fixed gear, though not enough to aid climb it. Follow this up and left across the wall (passing an optional stance) to reach the base of an open groove.6) 4+, 35m. Climb the groove to its end and a belay on the left.7) 4+, 25m. Weave up the wall to a stance below easier ground.8) 3, 40m. Trend right then up, the right again to the major ledge system that cuts across the upper part of the face.9) 1, 50m. Follow the ledges right to below an open groove.10) 4+, 30m. Up the groove to the higher ledge system.Note: It is possible to escape right from here along the ledge system, to join the descent route. Care required.11) 1, 50m. Scramble back left to where the ledge ends.12) 3, 20m. Climb the ramp to a belay below a leaning groove.13) 6a, 35m. Up the groove to its closure where exposed moves reach easy ground.14) 4, 50m. Easier climbing trending slightly right reaches the top - at last.Descent - Walk uphill in a northeast direction towards the top of the hill to a small col (cairns). A 40m abseil from a tree leads to open ground. Head down and left (cairns and white arrows) out onto the buttress to the north of the huge gully. On the end of this descend a ramp to locate the anchors. Two abseils (25m and 30m) lead to the foot of the face. © Rockfax
FA. J.Pi, J.Adalid, C.Torregrosa 1972.
Ticklists
Costa Blanca "Must Do" routes , The Big Easys , Costa blanca 2022 , Costa Blanca 2023
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mark Eddy | 13 Jan, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: The abseil from top is from bolted anchors on the left wall of the bay, just behind a small cluster of trees. It's 40m to the scree or can split into 2x20m as there is a midway abseil station that's also bolted | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The abseil from top is from bolted anchors on the left wall of the bay, just behind a small cluster of trees. It's 40m to the scree or can split into 2x20m as there is a midway abseil station that's also bolted |
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| Chad123 | 24 Apr, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Superb route, enough the rambling pitches link you to more classic pitches. All the 4+ pitches are quite tricky for the grade (about VS 4c) and airy, and almost feel harder than the clip up 6a pitches. A better start is the first pitch of Gorrilas en la Roca which gives another 6a pitch. The top 6a pitch is well worth doing, a great airy move out of a corner after supposedly 15 pitches, but we did the route in 9 pitches on double 60's, moving together on the really easy bits. Other routes around, make sure you traverse far left to get to the last 6a corner, it's further than you think! | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Superb route, enough the rambling pitches link you to more classic pitches. All the 4+ pitches are quite tricky for the grade (about VS 4c) and airy, and almost feel harder than the clip up 6a pitches. A better start is the first pitch of Gorrilas en la Roca which gives another 6a pitch. The top 6a pitch is well worth doing, a great airy move out of a corner after supposedly 15 pitches, but we did the route in 9 pitches on double 60's, moving together on the really easy bits. Other routes around, make sure you traverse far left to get to the last 6a corner, it's further than you think! |
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Martin's Arete
Grade: 6a ***
(Lost World)