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USER ATTENTION
3 March 2023 update: Peregrines and other seabirds are either prospecting or nesting on this crag.
A temporary ban has been put in place by the National Trust covering the area of cliff between Tubby Head and Bawden Cliff, so includes all of the major route locations up to and including the America Buttress. Once the exact locations of any nests have been identified, restrictions may be lifted.
from 03/03/0023
The route is located on the left end of the four four Texas buttress left of sunny delight on the narrow face seen from the start to journey to ixtlan good climbing good rock 90ftpleasant climbing,taking the thin crackline on the right side of the wall.climb a grey wall direct to the centre of the overlap,step left/back right following the crack to the ledge,climb the blank looking wall staight to the top.
Luke Pavey, Kate Lyons 04/Sep/2003.
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Route of Interest
Saxon Direct
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Kenidjack Cliffs)