The awesome hanging arete of the final groove of Eroica demands an enchanting combination of bold and technical climbing. The Master’s Edge of the South West?
100ft) Start at the 1st belay of Eroica on top of the massive flake. Climb the Eroica crux and follow the route up and right to the point at which the compelling arete looms immediately above. Place bomber gear here and make a series of hard moves right to gain the true arete. Some tricky movesa gain a good stainless steel peg and a rest (Friend 1.5 in an unreliable pocket just left of the arete here too). Committing and increasingly bold moves now lead up the very apex of the arete (crux), in possibly the wildest position on the crag, until a rockover move allows better holds to be gained on the left. Continue direct up the arete to the point where Wall Of Spirits moves around into Eroica, which is followed to the top. (flashed after abseil cleaning and inspection)
100ft) Start at the 1st belay of Eroica on top of the massive flake. Climb the Eroica crux and follow the route up and right to the point at which the compelling arete looms immediately above. Place bomber gear here and make a series of hard moves right to gain the true arete. Some tricky movesa gain a good stainless steel peg and a rest (Friend 1.5 in an unreliable pocket just left of the arete here too). Committing and increasingly bold moves now lead up the very apex of the arete (crux), in possibly the wildest position on the crag, until a rockover move allows better holds to be gained on the left. Continue direct up the arete to the point where Wall Of Spirits moves around into Eroica, which is followed to the top. (flashed after abseil cleaning and inspection)
Dave Pickford, Max Dutson 23/Jun/2011.
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Route of Interest
7:27.13
Grade: E7 6c ***
(Carn Vellan)