61m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A worthwhile series of testing pitches on good rock. The second pitch is bold. Start below a crack/groove.
1) 4b, 14m. Move up to below the crack/groove and climb it on good holds - all much steeper than first appearances would suggest.
2) 4b, 20m. Climb rightwards up a slab and make a bold step up left into a right-facing corner. Move up and make another step left into yet another corner. Move up and left once more to a slab and crack which leads to a spike. Swing across and down to a belay at a large flake.
3) 4b, 23m. From the large flake, climb the steep wall on the right to a corner and flakes. These lead to a final corner (the finish of Aardvark) and the top not far above. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Start from the horizontal bit of Jack's Rake which is just before the dangerous bad step. A few metres right of the start of Aardvark is an easy-looking crack/groove line.
1. 4b Follow the crack/groove (steeper and harder than it looks) to belay on a comfortable ledge on the left.
2. 4b A bold pitch. Climb the gentle slab above, moving right to stand below a right-facing corner groove guarded by a steep little bulge. Obtain as much pro as you can find. Overcome the bulge and move left into a similar groove on good holds but no gear. Repeat the manoeuvre to reach a slab which mercifully supplies good pro. Continue up the narrowing slab until it more or less ends and then shimmy rightwards round the arĂȘte into a large corner groove the lower part of which is part of Cook's Tour. Reach an awkward stance with awkward anchors from which awkward rope management may re-unite you with your second.
3. 4b Climb the right facing corner above the stance (not the slanting groove) and continue steeply over some suspicious looking ringing flakes from which the impressive looking left facing corner on your right can be reached and climbed to an abrupt finish.
A fairly long scramble and rightwards wander leads to the walkers' descent from which the Great Gully descent can be reached to return to the foot of Jack's Rake.

Ticklists

Lakeland's Best Multi-pitch Routes up to HVS , Langdale 3 star VS round - Climb them all in a single day (2013 Guide) , Arc'teryx Lakeland Revival 2017 , UK Holiday Plans , Turbo-Punter's Tradification

Feedback

User Date Notes
Matt Schwarz 1 Oct, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Description for pitch 2 very confusing
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Description for pitch 2 very confusing
Katie S 27 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Pitch 2 is difficult route finding and very very little pro.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Pitch 2 is difficult route finding and very very little pro.
Purple 4 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: A good route, worth 2 stars. As described, the second pitch is bold moving across the 3 corner grooves but the rock is super rough and the hand and foot holds good and easy to see.
Show beta
βeta: A good route, worth 2 stars. As described, the second pitch is bold moving across the 3 corner grooves but the rock is super rough and the hand and foot holds good and easy to see.
Bitterman 28 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Second pitch was ace.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Second pitch was ace.
djwilse 26 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Really not 3 stars - Top pitch might get 2 at a push. I would worry about aspiring VS leaders jumping on this because it is given 3 stars because of the bold 2nd pitch.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Really not 3 stars - Top pitch might get 2 at a push. I would worry about aspiring VS leaders jumping on this because it is given 3 stars because of the bold 2nd pitch.

Logged Ascents

245 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Pavey Ark

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 33 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 46
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 42
Votes cast 48
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Smuggler's Chimney

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Gable Crag)

Loading Notifications...