Rockfax Description
A long and challenging route with three big pitches up the Great Wall. Like Right Wall and Lord of the Flies, the route is considered easier when someone has done the hard work and chalked it up for you. Start on a small grassy ledge halfway between Great Wall and November.
1) 6a, 26m. Trend up and left making your way towards ledges and a peg. Move up and slightly right to a wire looped over an old bolt. Move up and slightly left to a peg hidden in a flake/groove on the left (easy to miss). A hard laybacking type move followed by a reach leads over a bulge. A line of holds leads leftwards to just above the belay of Great Wall, step down and belay.
2) 6a, 23m. Follow Great Wall up the groove for about 10m, to a move left onto a tiny ledge on the wall. A thin and technical wall above leads to holds that track left to the belay on Daurigol.
3) 6a, 28m. Easy climbing leads up and left towards Chimney Route - stop just before this. Head up to the steep arete - a side-runner to the right protects the initial steep section. A powerful series of moves up this leads to an easing in both angle and difficulty. Collapse onto the ledge above knowing you have just completed one of the best E6s in the country. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Super Route E6's , Extreme Rock , Great Wall Climbs of the UK , North Wales Rock Graded List , Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck , 100 or so good E6s - aye Caff , James' 2015 Summer.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Tom Briggs 7 Jul, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: The peg on the first pitch needs replacing. Tuffty had a good look at it on abseil after we did the route and could get his finger behind it : (
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The peg on the first pitch needs replacing. Tuffty had a good look at it on abseil after we did the route and could get his finger behind it : (
tintinandpip 13 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Pitch one only finished up Great Wall.
Show beta
βeta: Pitch one only finished up Great Wall.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Clogwyn Du'r Arddu (Cloggy)

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Voting
High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
Votes cast 9
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 10
Votes cast 9
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Senior Citizen Smith

Grade: E6 6b ***
(Gideon Quarries [Glyn Rhonwy])

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