Restricted Access
The BMC has an agreement with the National Trust for fixed equipment in the dale. Put simply this is that like for like maintenance/replacement can take place as and when is needed but placement of new bolts would require agreement through the Peak Area meeting followed by approaching the National Trust for permission. There isn't a presumption of refusal by any means, but the National Trust understandably want to keep track of bolting activity in the Dale and in some cases they may need to apply for SSSI consent as landowner. The National Trust are extremely supportive of climbing in all it's forms in the Dale and it's important that we continue to cultivate our good relationship with them to ensure our needs as climbers are considered into the future.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
- Tissington Spires - please avoid all routes on South Gully Buttress (Zulu Dawn to Amoeba inclusive) during the restriction period.
- Ravens Tor - due to the nest location the whole crag is to be avoided for the restriction period.
Rockfax Description
The soaring groove is the main feature of this side of The Church. Bridge up it, passing the bulge on the left, to reach ledges complete with belay/abseil pegs. © Rockfax
FA. Pete Williams, John Amies 1963.
Ticklists
Rockfax Peak Limestone (2012) Top 50 , World Graded List , Peak Rock/10/White Life , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs , The Eal List , Diffage Comp
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Cake | 17 Jun, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: The abseil station has been re-equipped. Thanks, whoever did it. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The abseil station has been re-equipped. Thanks, whoever did it. |
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| PaulJepson | 28 May, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Can the next party up please take a couple metres of tat. The abseil is in a bad state and I used the only tat I had to equalise the 2 old pegs so we could ab off the back into the gully. The extension to abseil back down Snakes Alive is a single strand of very old dyneema and will get someone killed. 4 or 5 metres will do because it wants to go around the big block. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Can the next party up please take a couple metres of tat. The abseil is in a bad state and I used the only tat I had to equalise the 2 old pegs so we could ab off the back into the gully. The extension to abseil back down Snakes Alive is a single strand of very old dyneema and will get someone killed. 4 or 5 metres will do because it wants to go around the big block. |
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| JHicks | 20 May, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: 2 birdnests on route (1 jackdaw, 1 unknown). Should probably be bird banned! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: 2 birdnests on route (1 jackdaw, 1 unknown). Should probably be bird banned! |
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| JHicks | 15 May, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: 2 birdnests on route (1 jackdaw, 1 unknown). Should probably be bird banned! | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: 2 birdnests on route (1 jackdaw, 1 unknown). Should probably be bird banned! |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Dovedale
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Nozag
Grade: VS 4c ***
(Castle Naze)