Restricted Access
The BMC has an agreement with the National Trust for fixed equipment in the dale. Put simply this is that like for like maintenance/replacement can take place as and when is needed but placement of new bolts would require agreement through the Peak Area meeting followed by approaching the National Trust for permission. There isn't a presumption of refusal by any means, but the National Trust understandably want to keep track of bolting activity in the Dale and in some cases they may need to apply for SSSI consent as landowner. The National Trust are extremely supportive of climbing in all it's forms in the Dale and it's important that we continue to cultivate our good relationship with them to ensure our needs as climbers are considered into the future.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
- Tissington Spires - please avoid all routes on South Gully Buttress (Zulu Dawn to Amoeba inclusive) during the restriction period.
- Ravens Tor - due to the nest location the whole crag is to be avoided for the restriction period.
Rockfax Description
A superb sustained pitch, on which the gear is perfect, but hard work to place. A loose wall (good small wires) leads to the bulge that guards the crack. Pull over this then press on rapidly up the soaring line. A couple of bridged rests are available for the long legged, but the ability to press on will be found of more use. © Rockfax
FA. Steve Read, Roy Leeming, D.Carnell, P.Brown, S.Hunt 1950s. FFA (nearly) John Fleming, Chris Calow (1pt) 1978. FFA. Ron Fawcett 1978 1955.
Ticklists
100 best limestone climbs in Britain , World Graded List , Peak Rock/13/The Limestone Revolution , James' Summer Ticklist , Definitive *** Peak Lime , Hard Peak Limestone Trad
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| phatlad | 19 Jun, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Awesome route, with a chossy start. Top is starting to look a tad tottery too now, take care on it | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Awesome route, with a chossy start. Top is starting to look a tad tottery too now, take care on it |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Dovedale
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Behemoth
Grade: E5 6b ***
(Water-cum-Jolly)