Restricted Access
The BMC has an agreement with the National Trust for fixed equipment in the dale. Put simply this is that like for like maintenance/replacement can take place as and when is needed but placement of new bolts would require agreement through the Peak Area meeting followed by approaching the National Trust for permission. There isn't a presumption of refusal by any means, but the National Trust understandably want to keep track of bolting activity in the Dale and in some cases they may need to apply for SSSI consent as landowner. The National Trust are extremely supportive of climbing in all it's forms in the Dale and it's important that we continue to cultivate our good relationship with them to ensure our needs as climbers are considered into the future.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
- Tissington Spires - please avoid all routes on South Gully Buttress (Zulu Dawn to Amoeba inclusive) during the restriction period.
- Ravens Tor - due to the nest location the whole crag is to be avoided for the restriction period.
Rockfax Description
A good first pitch that sees some attention and a much harder and spectacular second pitch that is neglected.
1) 5a, 22m. Start as for John Peel but follow the right-trending line up to the stance under the overlap. A worthwhile HVS 5a.
2) 6a, 20m. Pull into the steep groove above to an old peg and climb it until it is possible to get out left onto the wall. Continue up this steeply until it eases and finish up grass and poor rock. © Rockfax
FA. Paul; Nunn, Jeff Morgan (5 pts) 1969 FFA. John Codling, Steve Allen 1983.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| GrahamD | 14 Mar, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: The first pitch really is a worthy HVS in its own right - ab off the tat at the belay of John Peel. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The first pitch really is a worthy HVS in its own right - ab off the tat at the belay of John Peel. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Dovedale
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Bitterfingers
Grade: E4 6a ***
(Stoney Middleton)