Restricted Access
The BMC has an agreement with the National Trust for fixed equipment in the dale. Put simply this is that like for like maintenance/replacement can take place as and when is needed but placement of new bolts would require agreement through the Peak Area meeting followed by approaching the National Trust for permission. There isn't a presumption of refusal by any means, but the National Trust understandably want to keep track of bolting activity in the Dale and in some cases they may need to apply for SSSI consent as landowner. The National Trust are extremely supportive of climbing in all it's forms in the Dale and it's important that we continue to cultivate our good relationship with them to ensure our needs as climbers are considered into the future.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
- Tissington Spires - please avoid all routes on South Gully Buttress (Zulu Dawn to Amoeba inclusive) during the restriction period.
- Ravens Tor - due to the nest location the whole crag is to be avoided for the restriction period.
Rockfax Description
From the tree on the ground, walk left across grass ledges to a flake. Climb this then go left to the groove above. Move up cracks then step back rightwards to gain a grassy ramp leading to a delightful stance. Abseil from here. If you want the summit experience then spiral around the back to the top. Descent is awkward - the best option is to reverse back to the lower stance. © Rockfax
FA. Steve Read, Ron Leeming, D Carnell, P Brown, Steve Hunt 1956.
Ticklists
Peak Rock/7/8/Biven-Peck Partnership/1950's a Developing Decade , Off The Radar 300, Every Crag in The Peak , Peak District Pinnacles , Diffage Comp
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Alan James - Rockfax | 24 Mar, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Pleasant although it is better to miss out on the summit experience which is just awkward, especially now the tree is dead. The belay above Whacko is a lovely spot. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Pleasant although it is better to miss out on the summit experience which is just awkward, especially now the tree is dead. The belay above Whacko is a lovely spot. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Dovedale
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Crack and Corner
Grade: S 4b ***
(Stanage Popular)