Restricted Access
The BMC has an agreement with the National Trust for fixed equipment in the dale. Put simply this is that like for like maintenance/replacement can take place as and when is needed but placement of new bolts would require agreement through the Peak Area meeting followed by approaching the National Trust for permission. There isn't a presumption of refusal by any means, but the National Trust understandably want to keep track of bolting activity in the Dale and in some cases they may need to apply for SSSI consent as landowner. The National Trust are extremely supportive of climbing in all it's forms in the Dale and it's important that we continue to cultivate our good relationship with them to ensure our needs as climbers are considered into the future.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
- Tissington Spires - please avoid all routes on South Gully Buttress (Zulu Dawn to Amoeba inclusive) during the restriction period.
- Ravens Tor - due to the nest location the whole crag is to be avoided for the restriction period.
Rockfax Description
A magnificent climb - the best in the valley. From the toe of the buttress, trend up leftwards on good finger-holds and a line of threads. Swing down and left to a steep groove and sprint up this (old peg at its top). Swing left and, before gravity takes over, layback up into the welcome shade of the capping yew tree. © Rockfax
FA. Jack Street, Geoff Birtles (one rest) 1969.
Ticklists
Extreme Rock , Great Wall Climbs of the UK , Extreme Rock "Wall" Routes , Rockfax Peak Limestone (2012) Top 50 , 100 best limestone climbs in Britain , World Graded List , CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain , Peak Rock/10/White Life , Ultimate E3 ticklist , Definitive *** Peak Lime , On Peak Rock , Hard Peak Limestone Trad , Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs , Peak To Do , Lime trad for hobbyists , Best Before 2025
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| steveb2006 | 10 May, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Done a few times in past, last being in 2002 but had a look last weekend (4/5/06) and noticed the 'crucial' thread / tat in the middle of the traverse is missing. The rock has actually broken so someone could have had quite a swing if came off on the traverse. I used to rely on just clipping the tat - did get a rock 2 in and a micro - these are lower than the tat was, but doesnt alter grade (though I did fail on rest of route this time - too pumped). Would be interested to know when the thread tat/thread was broken and if anyone had a surprising plummet. Note there are still a couple of threads on bit shared with Nancy Whiskey i.e. before traverse. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Done a few times in past, last being in 2002 but had a look last weekend (4/5/06) and noticed the 'crucial' thread / tat in the middle of the traverse is missing. The rock has actually broken so someone could have had quite a swing if came off on the traverse. I used to rely on just clipping the tat - did get a rock 2 in and a micro - these are lower than the tat was, but doesnt alter grade (though I did fail on rest of route this time - too pumped). Would be interested to know when the thread tat/thread was broken and if anyone had a surprising plummet. Note there are still a couple of threads on bit shared with Nancy Whiskey i.e. before traverse. |
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| Davros the Psyched | 11 Jul, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Flippin brilliant route. Beautiful and complex moves thankfully broken into bite-size chunks by good rests and bomber gear. As of July '05 the threads were in a faded but pretty solid state. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Flippin brilliant route. Beautiful and complex moves thankfully broken into bite-size chunks by good rests and bomber gear. As of July '05 the threads were in a faded but pretty solid state. |
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| Katya | 19 Jan, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: A contender for the best E3 in the Peak. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: A contender for the best E3 in the Peak. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Dovedale
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Queer Street
Grade: E3 6a ***
(Chee Dale Lower)