Restricted Access
The BMC has an agreement with the National Trust for fixed equipment in the dale. Put simply this is that like for like maintenance/replacement can take place as and when is needed but placement of new bolts would require agreement through the Peak Area meeting followed by approaching the National Trust for permission. There isn't a presumption of refusal by any means, but the National Trust understandably want to keep track of bolting activity in the Dale and in some cases they may need to apply for SSSI consent as landowner. The National Trust are extremely supportive of climbing in all it's forms in the Dale and it's important that we continue to cultivate our good relationship with them to ensure our needs as climbers are considered into the future.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
- Tissington Spires - please avoid all routes on South Gully Buttress (Zulu Dawn to Amoeba inclusive) during the restriction period.
- Ravens Tor - due to the nest location the whole crag is to be avoided for the restriction period.
Rockfax Description
An unequal battle for many. Climb the rib, then the sustained pocketed crack with difficulty (old peg) to an eventual breather on a ledge on the left. Pull up and climb the rib then saunter over leftwards to the chain. © Rockfax
FA. Rock and Ice members early 1950s FFA. Ron Fawcett Chris Gibb 1976 1952.
Ticklists
Peak Rock/13/The Limestone Revolution , Definitive *** Peak Lime , Lime trad for hobbyists , Best Before 2025
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| hamer89 | 17 Jun, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Two different finish descriptions in bmc and rockfax guide. One right to lower off seemed a bit naff and too low and one left to big chain. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Two different finish descriptions in bmc and rockfax guide. One right to lower off seemed a bit naff and too low and one left to big chain. |
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| Hannes B | 7 Jun, 2021 |
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βeta: Removed lots of loose rock from top out | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Removed lots of loose rock from top out |
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| UKB Shark | 9 Aug, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: The Rockfax mistakenly shows this finishing right to a bolt belay which actually belongs to a new route/project/open project. The original finish is to the ledge on left then right rib of groove. Going the Rockfax way is E56B. Also worth noting that the start is fairly unprotectable. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: The Rockfax mistakenly shows this finishing right to a bolt belay which actually belongs to a new route/project/open project. The original finish is to the ledge on left then right rib of groove. Going the Rockfax way is E56B. Also worth noting that the start is fairly unprotectable. |
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| Adrian Berry | 19 Aug, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: The topo seems out of sync with the description - follow the description to the ledge, and above and right of the ledge it is logical to continue up and right, rather than step back down, make hard moves through the bulge to get to exactlt the same spot - which is indicated by the topo. Maybe I went the wrong way? You can easily clip a double bolt belay out right and lower-off and save all that grass pulling to the top. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: The topo seems out of sync with the description - follow the description to the ledge, and above and right of the ledge it is logical to continue up and right, rather than step back down, make hard moves through the bulge to get to exactlt the same spot - which is indicated by the topo. Maybe I went the wrong way? You can easily clip a double bolt belay out right and lower-off and save all that grass pulling to the top. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Dovedale
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Amber Gambler
Grade: E4 6a ***
(High Tor)