Restricted Access
The BMC has an agreement with the National Trust for fixed equipment in the dale. Put simply this is that like for like maintenance/replacement can take place as and when is needed but placement of new bolts would require agreement through the Peak Area meeting followed by approaching the National Trust for permission. There isn't a presumption of refusal by any means, but the National Trust understandably want to keep track of bolting activity in the Dale and in some cases they may need to apply for SSSI consent as landowner. The National Trust are extremely supportive of climbing in all it's forms in the Dale and it's important that we continue to cultivate our good relationship with them to ensure our needs as climbers are considered into the future.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
- Tissington Spires - please avoid all routes on South Gully Buttress (Zulu Dawn to Amoeba inclusive) during the restriction period.
- Ravens Tor - due to the nest location the whole crag is to be avoided for the restriction period.
Rockfax Description
Start inside the left-hand edge of the arch, and climb the pillar and thin crack in the roof out to join The Bat. Most of the bolts are just studs now but these can be looped with wires. © Rockfax
FA. Chris Craggs, Colin Binks 1982, rapidly neutered by the addition of many extra bolts. 2000.
Ticklists
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| nate | 21 Aug, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: maybe neutered if your CC height, fun first aid climb.. made interesting by lack of hangers on 4 bolts (in a good way) | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: maybe neutered if your CC height, fun first aid climb.. made interesting by lack of hangers on 4 bolts (in a good way) |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Dovedale
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Middle Stump
Grade: A2 ***
(Dovedale)